
Class ^3JX^ 
Rnnk ■ L ^ 

CoffyrightN" 

COPVRIGHT DEPOSrr. 



Wfkkj.imA^^Y^'^r^^ r ^/ '^ 




JAMES M. LORING. 




ANNA P. CLEAVELAND LORING. 



Digitized by the Internet Archive 
in 2011 with funding from 
The Library of Congress 



http://www.archive.org/details/oldworldthroughnOOIori 




HAYDEN YOUNG LORI NG- -1868-19 :4, 

Son of the Author, 

Who furnished the Funds for the Tour. 



The Old World 



THROUGH 



NEW WORLD EYES 



The Development of the Orient and Central 
Europe and Great Britain 

Traced on Chronological and Geographical Lines 



BY JAMES M, LORING 



Clayton Sta., St. Louis: 

R- B- Crossman, Publisher and Printer. 
1904 



ci 



LIBRARY ot CONGRESS 
CneGouy Received 

DlC 201905 

Cojjyrifc'nl Entry 

LASS a_ XXC. No. 

L 3 3 g (a 
COPY B. 






Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1903, 

BY JAMES M. LORING, 

in the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 



To 

ANNA P. LORING, my wife, 

and to 

ETHEL W. LORING, my daughter, 

This volume is affectionately inscribed. 



CONTENTS 

Page 

1 Preface, 6 

2 A Pilgrimage, ....... 7 

3 In the Land of the Pharaohs, .... 9 

4 Cheops ........ 12 

5 Sakkarrah ....... 14 

6 Reminiscences of a Pilgrim at the Shrine of the 

Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem . . ". 16 

7 The Eternal Camel : A Soliloquy . . .18 

8 The Saviour ....... 20 

9 Jerusalem ....... 23 

10 Palestine and Syria . . . . . .25 

11 Prince Ruloff 28 

12 Constantinople . . . . . . .31 

13 The Eastern Mediterranean and the JEgea.n Sea 33 

14 Saida: The Tomb of Alexander; the Tomb of 

Tabnith; Archeology 34 

15 Athens ........ 35 

16 Naples: The Museum ; Vesuvius; Pompeii . 38 

17 Rome: Imperial, Mediaeval and Modern . 41 

18 The Barberini, Medici, Borghesi . . .45 

19 Florence ....... 47 

20 Venice: Its Inception, Magnificence and Decay 49 

21 Venice: An Idyll . . . . . .52 

22 Venice Again 54 

23 Milan; St. Gothard; Lucerne . . . .56 

24 Lucerne; William Tell; Stuttgart ... 57 

25 Stuttgart to Mayence; Down the Rhine . . 6O' 

26 Cologne . . . . . . . . 63 

27 V^aterloo ........ 64 



CONTENTS V 

Page 

28 Brussels; Antwerp; Malines . . . ., 67 

29 Syria; Egypt and Continental Europe. A Resume 69 

30 Paris 69 

31 Oriental and European Royalty and Pageantry . 75 

32 Causes of the Selection of Sites for Ancient Cities 77 

33 Paris; Rouen; Dieppe; New Haven . . .80 

34 Incidents and Reminiscences of the Tour . 81 

35 London: The Thames; the Streets; North Side 84 

36 The King 85 

37 The Peace News and the Te Deum . . .86 

38 Europe and America Contrasted ... 87 

39 Necessity of Decimal Uniformity in Money Sys- 

tems, Weights and Measures ... 88 

40 London 89 

41 London and the Empire ..... 90 

42 A Pilgrimage to Stratford -on -Avon . . .93 

43 Middle England, Scotland and Ireland . . 103 

44 Dublin, Central Ireland and the Lakes of Killarney 106 

45 Ireland Redivivus ...... 108 



PREFACE 



in £ skaTake tlff"^' .th°'-o"ghly. take it at its source 
Z^Tut, ^'*''^> f'oat down Its stream examining its shores 

rent th. 'f "m''"""^'.*''"* ""^^^ "P "^e volumeV the cur- 
rent that finally empties into the gulf at the Balize Sn L 

"he Nnri*'' '""?' °' '^'^*°^' comment it Egyp?'by 
Svri^inH T i;^ "^""V^^ '^'"■"^^t civilization, travel through 

terranean hi the Orient, where our earhest develonmeni 

Ocddenf °H ?'"" ^"^^ pleasures and labors of sedng he 
Occident and Europe. This was the course of the authnr 
who^^now submits the results to your kinV^nTtolS 

JAMES M. LORING 
Jn!y26, 1902. ^^19 W. Belle Place, St. Louis, Mo. 



THE OLD WORLD 
THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 

A PILGRIMAGE 

(Written in Mid-Ocean, February 12) 

February 8, 1902, we, a party of pilgrims, left pier No. 
24, Brooklyn, N. Y., on the good steamship Aller, Captain 
Wilhelmi, register 8,000 horsepower, displacement 5,2l7 
tons, bound for Egypt and the Holy Land. Every good 
Christian is in his heart a crusader and wishes, some time 
in his life, to see the Holy Sepulchre. The pilgrimage 
made by the Emperor William at the time evoked unquali- 
fied admiration for one whose other acts have sometimes 
been erratic. Columbus, himself, had two motives in view: 
To open the way to the East by sailing directly to the west; 
first, that Spain might gain great riches, and, second, that 
through them she might recover the Sepulchre. He was an 
enthusiastic sailor, soldier and fighter in the great war 
against the Moors, which put a stop to the military power 
of the Saracen in his hitherto triumphant march westward. 
I think the day will yet come when the Christian nations 
of the world will acquire by diplomacy and peaceful means 
what Peter the Hermit, Philip the Second, Richard the 
First, Godfrey of Bouillon, and other warlike crusaders 
failed to accomplish by war and force; that they will in 
"Christian Alliance" have joint political control and sov- 
ereignty over so much of Palestine as to give all Christian 
pilgrims the right of ingress and egress, under Christian 
government, to the final resting place of our Saviour — to all 
true men the most sacred spot on earth. Although the cru- 
sades at the time failed in their main object, incidentally 
and providentially, they resulted in the first great advance- 
ment of Europe toward civilization, in the thorough min- 



8 THE OLD WORLD 

gling of hitherto widely separated and inimical nations and 
peoples. 

We of the Far West can only reach the Far East by 
crossing a great ocean. 

What are my impressions of this great expanse of waters, 
necessarily crossed, between New York and Gibraltar? 

We remained for the most part upon the promenade deck, 
either walking or sitting in the rented chairs, and had a tine 
chance through the sixteen days of the voyage to observe 
the restless and ever-clianging sea. So many-sided and 
complex is this element that a single epethet fails to fully 
characterize it. To Homer, the first epic poet, the multitude 
of the waves and their perpetual sound appeared prominent 
— "the multitudinous laughter of the waves". The Latin 
poets of the Augustan age had no sense of the picturesque; 
their art was epic, social and satiric. George Sand, in 
"Consuelo", addressed to the Mediterranean Sea an impas- 
sioned apostrophe, copied and imitated by Byron in "Roll 
on, thou deep and dark blue ocean — roll!" Shakespeare 
refers to the base of the chalk cliffs at Dover as "swilled" 
by the wild and wasteful ocean. He refers to "the clouds 
in the bosom of the great ocean buried". Gray, in The 
Elegy, written in a country churchyard, speaks of the 
"ocean's unfathomed depths". (See Contra the U. S. 
coast and marine surveys.) He refers to "full many a gem 
of purest ray serene" lying at the bottom of the great 
ocean ''unseen". William Cullen Bryant speaks of the 
"gray old ocean poured 'around all'." Dr. Kane, in his 
Arctic Expedition, saw "the sea reflected in the sky, the 
sky in the sea". Celia Thaxter, the daughter of a light- 
house keeper, in the "Isles of Shoals", observed the sea 
as from a ship, and has so vividly described it in its protean 
forms and appearances as to make her transcript dear to all 
lovers of nature in its wild moods. In "Landlocked", 
written during a short absence, she depicts in vivid lan- 
guage her intense longing for the charms of the sea. Frank 
T. Bullen, able seaman, in "Idylls of the Sea", gives us 
his fresh and uncopied views of the ocean in all latitudes 
and longitudes. 

I view it as complex. In the two great hemispheres and the 
four orreat seas, its surface reaches into every port and inlet. 




DESCENT FROM PYRAMID OF CHEOPS. 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 9 

It was in the beginning, and is now, the great highway of 
the nations and of civilization. The salt of the sea is for 
the saving of the nations. All rivers and refuse empty into 
it; all wrecks and carcasses sink into its depth, without 
putrefaction or corruption, iodine is in its irridescent waters, 
which is for healing; a trace even of gold collects on the 
copper bottom of ships during a long voyage; the oleaginous 
carcasses of trillions of infusoria and marine animals are 
annually overlaid by calcareous deposits to become, on sub- 
sequent upheavals of the beds of the ocean in the course of 
geological ages, vast reservoirs of petroleum for the illumin- 
ation and warmth of mankind. Not without providential 
cause are three-quarters of the earth covered with deep salt 
waters. It is ever old, ever new and fresh. A handful of 
its waters dipped up is colorless; yet, under varying lights, 
its colors are as changeable as the hues of the dolphin. The 
hues of the sea and the tints of its overarching sky, in color 
though varied, in beauty may vie. The old ocean is in the 
right place, and all right in every way. 

The earth is so immensely old that in my opinion every 
drop of the ocean has been through the eternal round of 
moisture, cloud, precipitation and rainfall, and has been 
poured over the brink of Niagara as out of the palm of the 
Almighty's Hand, many times. 

THE LAND OF THE PHARAOHS 

In the beginning "the earth was without form, and void." 
It then occupied the orbit of Neptune, the outermost planet 
in the solar system. Gradually, through jEons of milleniums, 
it wound its spiral course nearer to the center, until now it 
is third place from the sun. Shakespeare said, "this earth 
is very old". The upper strata, geologically, are the Eo- 
cene, Miocene and Pliocene. The present alluvial deposits 
took place in the Miocene. In the latter part of the Miocene 
verdure com.menced to cover the waste places; moisture 
condensed against the upheaved mountains, and rivers 
commenced to flow. This grass, so lusty and green, so 
agreeable to the eye, is the "forgiveness" of nature. It 
was the first food of animals and mankind. The valley of 
the Nile throughout ages has been perennial with the richest 



10 THE OLD WORLD 

verdure and developed the finest grain for the sustenance of 
the dense popuhition th.at has always inhabited this favored 
shore. There is but one Nile. It is the second longest 
river on the face of the earth, the Mississippi being first — the 
Mississippi 4,066 miles, and the Nile 4,012. Both flow 
parallel with the meridians of longitude; both are in the 
northern hemisphere; one in the old, the other in the new 
world; both are in the centers of rich agricultural valleys. 
Commerce is the interchange of the productions of one 
climate for those of another; both rivers are highways of 
commerce. Commerce makes civilization. The Nile valley 
is the seat of the oldest civilization in recorded history. 
The Nile and the lakes that feed it, the Albert Nyanza and 
the Victoria Nyanza, are the gift of the heavy rains of the 
Equatorial Mountains. Speke, Grant and Baker, the earliest 
English-African explorers, ascertained this fact. They ver- 
ified what Herodotus only surmised. These lakes fill the 
Nile;— the White Nile, the Nubian branch of the Nile, 
makes it overflow. Thus, the lakes and Nile are the gift of the 
Equatorial Mountains and their winter rains. No mountains 
as moisture condensers, no lakes, and no Nile: no Nile, no 
Egypt. Egypt is a long narrow oasis reclaimed from the 
great desert of Sahara by the Nile, ten miles wide and three 
thousand miles long. The Equatorial Mountains, the detri- 
tus, the falling moisture, are nature's laboratories. The 
phosphates, carbonates, nitrates and all salts, bases and 
acids are here cunningly extracted and combined, then 
taken up by the overflowing freshets, carried down to the 
valley below, overflow on the long- extended banks of the 
sacred river, spread out evenly and equally, and are so rich 
that, acted upon by the heat of the sun, in a climate that is 
equal to the best hot house in the temperate zones, three 
crops of cotton, sugar and grain can be produced annually. 
There is only one Nile, one Nile valley, and in the geogra- 
phy and zones of this earth can only be one. Of the two 
strong instincts in man, one — the body hunger, to keep the 
individual alive — has always here been lavishly supplied; of 
course, the mass of individuals in each generation being well 
nourished, the continuation and perpetuation of the race 
follows. This constitutes the second strong instinct. There 
has always been a heavy population in this unique valley, 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 11 

and, consequently, much history. Let memory and imag- 
ination act as a biographer and unroll the scroll of chronicles: 
First the prehistoric period, briefly adverted to, and then 
the Ancient Empire, with at least sixteen dynasties or 
changes of ruling families, with many powerful rulers and 
pyramid builders — all this from 4,000 years B. C. to 1,500 
years B. C; then the New Empire, with four dynasties, to 
950 B. C; then the period of foreign domination, lasting 
287 years; then the late Egyptian period, lasting 331 years, 
with the Persian domination; then the Gr^co- Roman 
period commencing with Alexander the Great, to 640 A. D., 
embracing all the Ptolemies; the Roman period, with all 
the Roman emperors, and the Byzantines down to the Mid- 
dle Ages, when the Mohammedan period — A. D. 640 — com- 
menced, continuing under various dynasties, including the 
Mamelukes, till modern history began under the Turkish 
domination after 1517 A. D., to the French occupation under 
Napoleon Bonaparte in 1798. Finally, at the instance of the 
French Consul, Mohammed Ali was appointed Pasha. Under 
nominal Ottoman and Khedival rule, first the French, then 
the British, from 1798 to the present hour, have had potent 
influence in shaping the political, internal, agricultural 
and commercial affairs of this old empire of the Ptolemies 
and Pharaohs. Commencing with the stern old Mehemet 
Ali, with his intense aversion to the digging of the Suez 
Canal, we have in regular succession Ibrahim, Abbas, Said, 
Ismail, the magnificent spendthrift, Tewfik, his son, and the 
seventh and present Abbas Hilmi, all with the surname of 
Pasha and the official title of Khedive, viceroy, all under the 
sovereignty of the Turkish Empire; and since the rebellion 
of Arabi, the bombardment of Alexandria, the occupation by 
a British Army of six thousand men, under the real control, 
management and administration of Lord Crom^er, resident 
British Consul. Ferdinand Lesseps promoted the Suez 
Canal, inveigled Ismail, the ambitious and the reckless, into 
pledging his own credit and the credit of Egypt, hitherto 
free of debt, for an indebtedness of nearly four hundred 
millions of franks incurred in digging the ditch; defaulted 
on the interest and afterward on the principal. Great 
Britain then came to the rescue of its private citizens, large 
holders of these bonds ; made war on the rebel Egyptians 



12 THE OLD WORLD 

led by Arabi, — patriot leader and a common fellah, who en- 
deavored, under the cry of "Egypt for the Egyptians," to 
expel all foreigners from the land — bombarded and laid 
waste old Alexandria; dispersed the rebels; imprisoned 
Arabi in Ceylon, where he died; took possession of the port 
and the revenues; became the curator, guardian, protector 
and tutor of the reigning Khedive, and really the "receiver" 
of the Egyptian Empire— whose affairs they have, with the 
assistance of six thousand red coats always under arms, ever 
since managed — not only for the benefit of their own British 
bondholders, but for the French, German, Russian and Ital- 
ial creditors. The English thus have a "perpetual" mort- 
gage on the land. The condition of the land, its arable 
area cultivated by the fellaheen, the sanitation of the dwell- 
ings and streets, the administration of law, have all been 
carefully promoted by the British officials. During their 
occupation peace, justice, order and civilization increased. 
The British occupation under the able, just and fearless 
leadership of Consul Cromer has been a blessing in undis- 
guise. Clive redeemed India; Rhodes South Africa, and 
the native Arabi's rebellion has indirectly benefitted Egypt. 
Lesseps died virtually a prisoner in disgrace and insane. 
But civilization has been advanced through him. Thus the 
world moves. As Emerson says, "Many efforts and many 
failures, and every now and then a result slipped magically 
in." 

CHEOPS 

CAIRO, Egypt, February 2y. 
From the Grand Continental Hotel in Cairo, a drive of 
ten miles over a magnificent turnpike road, built by Ismail 
Pasha, the Reckless, on the occasion of the visit of the 
Prince of Wales, brought a party of nine pilgrims from 
America, in three carriages through avenues of acacia shade 
trees, past batteries of English red-coated artillery sol- 
diers, long processions of stalking camels, trotting donkeys, 
barefooted, long- striding, fly-capped Arabs, to Ghizeh, an 
ancient abode village of fellaheen at the western edge of 
Sakkarrah. We were accompanied by a ocnductor, Elias, a 
noted dragoman, a "turbanned Turk" in countenance, and 
three smart fly-capped whips. 



THROUGH NEW Vv^ORLD EYES 13 

An inspection of the pyramids on the spot to a thoughtful 
man reveals more of their character than pictures or volumes 
of description. They He west of the Nile, fully ten miles; 
are seated on a stratified limestone plateau fully thirty feet 
above the green valley of irrigation. They are in the sandy 
region. Cario is one hundred and thirty miles from Alex- 
andria; is at a point where the numerous branches of the 
Nile spread out to form the immense and fertile desert. 
Coming from Jerusalem, in a line southwesterly, one crosses 
the ancient isthmus of Suez, at Ismailia, and reaches Cairo 
on as short a line as to Alexandria by the sea. Geological 
ages ago this point v/as destined to be the seat and center 
of mighty populations. To this place Joseph and Mary fled 
when escaping from the murderous Herod. The very cave 
still exists, under the Coptic Christian Church, in which the 
divine family rested concealed after their flight. This day 
I descended into it, touching with reverent hands the spot 
on which the infant Saviour rested. Not far is a branch of 
the Nile in which grew the copse of reeds where the child 
Moses was concealed from the wrath of that Pharaoh who 
oppressed the Israelites. Near this spot dwelt the ancient 
kings of Egypt as dynasty succeeded dynasty. In this 
favored valley the children of the soil, the ancient Egyptian 
people, flourished in vast numbers, they and their flocks 
nurtured by the generous vegetation and cereals, the fruit 
of the slime of the overflowing river of new mud, Nea-ilus. 
Then hereditary kings possessed pcv/er more imperial, 
absolute and despotic than any of the Csesars in their best 
days. They owned the millions of helots body and soul. 
The physiognomy of Ramesis II, the Pharaoh of the Bible, 
reveals thoroughly his character. His mummy lies in a 
wooden case. No. 118, of the Ghizeh Museum near the pyr- 
amids. I saw it to-day. A medium sized head, retreating 
forehead, prominent aquiline nose, high cheek bones, long, 
wide and strong upper lip, firm set mouth and chin, even 
after three thousand years of the rigidness of death show 
him to have been every inch a king, proud, haughty, 
overbearing and despotic, resembling in the contour of his 
cranium and poise of his body, Louis XIV and the Bourbon 
line of kings, who Vv^ere also great architects. If they had 
no belief or conception of the im.mortality of the human soul, 



14 THE OLD WORLD 

they certainly made strenuous efforts to make their own 
royal bodies immortal by the process of embalming, an art 
in which they reached the highest perfection, swathed in 
multitudinous folds of fine linen, and then concealed in the 
deep crypts of tombs beneath the arid sands, and above the 
reach of corrupting moisture and decay. This is the reason 
for the existence of these lasting monuments, the nine 
pyramids of Ghizeh and of Sakkarrah, the ever-mysterious 
Sphinx and the numerous sarchophagi that surround 
them. The Sphinx is a recumbent lion with a human 
head — Egyptian — and stone hood or keffie, cut out of the 
natural stone there embedded. Surrounding this animal - 
human figure are galleries of colossal red granite, with 
rooms for such worship as they professed and places of 
cool, peaceful, eternal— they fondly believed — sepulchre. 
The pyramid commencing with a single flat stone, grew by 
accretions and layers of enormous blocks brought from a 
quarry miles distant on a causeway, parts of which remain. 
The seat of the Sphinx is twenty feet below the base of 
the great pyramid. This structure is not a tomb, but is 
monumental, historic, scientific and an ocular demonstra- 
tion of the absolute power of the kings and the overflowing 
strength of a surplus population. 

On February 25 I ascended by four hundred and fifty 
steps, hip high, this most mighty monument, named "Che- 
ops",^ erected by the puny hand of weak man. Csesar 
said, ''Veni, vidi, vici"; 1 add, *'ascendi". 

SAKKARRAH 

CAIRO, Egypt, February 28. 
This morning we got an early start from the Continental 
Hotel, and three carriages soon took nine of us across the 
fine iron truss American-built bridge, with its four squatting 
heroic-size lions guarding both entrances, to the landing 
place of a steam launch moored on the east bank of the 
Nile. Entering this, we steamed ten miles up, amid scenes 
of great beauty and historic memories running back centuries 
into the dim past, the pyramids of Ghizeh on our distant 
right and old Cairo on our left, with the building containing 
the official Nileometer, and the bank where the beautiful 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 15 

legend of the finding of the infant Moses took its rise. We 
met and overtook many two-sailed vessels, dahabahs, with 
wings spread out like those of the swallow, and after an 
elegant lunch on board, disembarked at the wharf of ancient 
Memphis. We found ten donkeys with boys waiting for 
us, our guide, Mr. Warren, of London, and our dragoman, 
Elias Telhamy, in native costume, baggy trousers and all, 
reminding me of Shakespeare's ''malignant and turbanned 
Turk". Mounting, we trotted rapidly over railroad tracks 
and embankments until we came to two colossal prostrate 
marble images: one the statue of Ramesis II, discovered by 
the arch^ologist Caviglia and presented by Mahomet Ali to 
the British Museum. The leg at the calf measures nine 
feet. Another has been discovered near by. Herodotus 
and Diodorus Siculus refer to them as standing in front of 
the temple of Phtah. They were standing when the Jews 
were still in bondage in Egypt. Buried in the soil round 
about are probably many more, to be resurrected in the 
future. Gigantic date and banana palms, with outcropping 
walls cover the entire city of Men-Nefra (Memphis) or 
Pyramid city, the proud capital of lower Egypt, — denounced 
bitterly by Jeremiah, the Hebrew prophet: *'Noppe shall 
be waste and a desert without one inhabitant." Joseph, — 
who had fled v/ith the infant Jesus and lodged in a cave in 
the side of a hill,, nov/ subterranean under the foundation of 
the time- stained Coptic Church, itself half -buried by four- 
teen hundred inundations of old Nile, located in ancient and 
deserted Cairo, — might, and possibly did, come to Memphis 
and look upon those colossal statues of Egyptian kings. 
The Saracenic invasion in the seventh century obliterated 
all this pride and pomp of the old capital. Could they also 
have destroyed the tombs and pyramids of the Necropolis 
further on, doubtless they would have done so. This 
is in the edge of the desert five miles distant. We 
passed through, in going, a village of outcast, half- naked 
Arabs, and mangy, half- starved dogs. The "Steppe" pyra- 
mid, said to be the oldest, is called the Throne of Pharaoh. 
The pyramids of Sakkarrah are eleven in number, the 
highest one hundred and ninety feet. The tomb of Tih 
and the tomb of Phatah Hotephave many chambers whose 
walls are decorated with pictures, some colored, cut in 



16 THH OLD WORLD 

marble, figuring domestic scenes in their daily life, the 
after-state of the soul, its passage to eternity and undeci- 
phered mystic representations. The Serapetum is the 
catacombs containing twenty-four granite sarcophagi, each 
13x8x12 feet, quarried in Assouan, brought down the Nile 
and placed in a series of underground vaults, for the last 
resting place of the Divine Bulls of Apis : — these to me were 
more astounding in the gigantic labor involved than the 
building of a pyramid. No other place in the world has 
such gigantic monuments. The funeral obsequies of each 
sacred white bull cost much treasure and doubtless many 
cheap human lives. Egypt has exceeded my expectations. 

REMINISCENCES OF A PILGRIM 
AT THE SHRINE OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE IN JERUSALEM 

Commencing Wednesday, Februray 5, what stretches of 
fertile states, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, Pennsylvania and New 
York, I passed over in reaching our metropolis of the 
Western continent; whatvast stretches of wild and wasteful 
winter ocean, with its endless succession of mountainous 
billows pounding against the vertical steel -riveted sides of 
our gallant "Aller" as with the iron sledgehammer of the 
fabled Tiior, the Norse god, as, ''rocked in the cradle of the 
deep, I lay me down [but not] to sleep" ; what floods of icy 
brine poured in through the porthole of my stateroom, left 
carelessly open ; what seemingly eiidless miles of Atlantic 
and Mediterranean seas we rode over: what islands, the 
"Acores", fabled by Plato as the mythical Atlantides, 
Sardinia, Sicily, the gray, low-lying isles of Greece, Crete, 
Candia, Peloponnesus, Scio and Zante, beloved of Byron, 
"where burning Sapho loved and sung"; what impregna- 
ble fortresses and lovely cities — Gibraltar, Naples, Brindisi, 
Alexandria, Port Said, Beirut and Jaffa; what memorial 
pillars to mark the terminus of Via Appia at Brindisi, — to 
celebrate the glory of Pompey at Alexandria; what beacons 
and famous electric lights far-flashing at Trafalgar, Gibral- 
tar, Spartivento, Naples, Brindisi and, at Alexandria, Pharos, 
the father of all lighthouses; what mountains of Spain, 
the famed Appe nines of Italy, the Lebanon range of Pales- 



CO 

O 
C 
> 

m 

O 

■n 

D 




THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 17 

tine; what diverse and intermingled nationalities: English, 
Algerines, Italians, Venetians, Austrians, Germans, French, 
Egyptians, Arabs, Copts, Fellaheen, Jebusites, Philistines, 
Jews and Gentiles; what costumes of many fashions, colors 
and qualities; what languages and questions: ''Par Late 
Italiano?" " Farles-voiis Francaisf " Sprechen sie 
Deutsckef" What coins of shillings, guineas, marks, lira, 
piastres, and circular paper notes of the Bank of England; 
what sumptuous hotels with soft beds, lofty halls and noble 
facades: "Albergi international" at Brindisi, ''Abbas" at 
Alexandria, "Oriental" at Beirut, "Mena House" at the 
pyramids, and the "Grand New Hotel" by the Jaffa Gate 
of Jerusalem. What menus and complicated cuisine of 
soups, pates, entrees, vegetables, roasts, sweets and des- 
sert, with their Rougets Fritz, boeuf braisee, turee Epinards 
aux o'euis, pigeons et salade yarde, veau en cuiiy, riz a 
I'indienne, entrecote, grille au cresson, pommes sauties, 
and always ending v/ith cafe a-la-Turc: what programmes 
of fine music to enliven the evening assemblies by com.pos- 
ers: Trave, Strauss, Suppe, Mervillier, Gounod, Cervasis, 
Meyerbeer, Wibert; what companies of learned and polite 
voyageurs, so friendly and communicative to our tour, — 
six gentlemen, three ladies, — also our interpreter and guide, 
Mr. Harry Warren, of London; then Mrs. Best, with Miss 
Isabelle Elliott, her companion, a fragile English girl who 
looked as if she had stepped out of one of Tennyson's 
poems; what ardent lovers the ship's doctor and Francesco 
Onofrio made; what pyramids; what noble ships carried 
us: the "Aller" "Semirammis", "Rhamanieh" and the 
"T'Zarowitch", with its one thousand Greek Christians on 
their way to a pilgrimage in Jerusalem; what dangerous 
debarkation among the rocks of Andromeda at Jaffa, when 
the frail little boats, tossed on the rough waves, threatened 
disaster every minute; what a wonderful fifty-mile ride by 
rail through the "Valley of Sharon" and the historic 
mountains to Jerusalem; through Ajalon, where Joshua 
commanded the sun to stand still; and on to Jaffa Gate in 
the ancient Hebrew capital, — near which gate we are com- 
fortably ensconced in the Grand New Hotel, from whose 
rock-covered battlements we can view valleys reaching 
north, south, east and west, all commanded by the ancient 



18 THH OLD WORLD 

fortress; also Mount of Olives, Bethlehem, the valley of the 
Jordan and the deep ravine in which lies the Dead Sea with 
its heavy and bitter waters, its destroyed cities of Sodom 
and Gomorrah, consigned to an everlasting infamy, resound- 
ing through all the ages, for their phenominal wickedness; 
from whose turreted embattlements, also, we can see 
the Mosque of Omar, with its enormous dome, to the 
northeast, and the Holy Sepulchre to the northwest, — into 
all of whose sacred shrines I have entered, and seen the 
stone whereon the Saviour's body was annointed, the tomb 
in which He lay. Calvary and the place of crucifixion, 
against which I saw many fervent, eager pilgrims raptur- 
ously pressing their lips — a pathetic sight — myself uttering 
a prayer for the present and eternal welfare of our own dear 
native land, the good people in the far- distant land of m^^ 
nativity, and my own family and friends, with devout 
thanks to Heaven for permitting me to accomplish this 
prolonged journey. 

THE ETERNAL CAMEL 

A Soliloquy 

The camel in his own person speaks: 

I have two more teeth than mankind, seven callosities, 
one fat hump and five stomachs. One stomach is false and 
will hold unmasticated food, and in the cells surrounding it 
water to be pressed out and regurgitated. I am larger than 
the ass or horse; can carry as heavy burthens as the 
elephant, am not so unwieldy and more adapted to the 
wants of man. I have the adaptability of man to different 
climates and zones; — can live on the frozen plains of Siberia, 
in the arid wastes of Arabia, or under the vertical sun of 
the equator. My habitat extends from Tartary, through 
China, the desert of Gobi or Sham, Turkistan, Persia, 
Arabia; through Egypt, Tripoli and Algeria, even unto the 
far-famed towers of the Alhambra in Spain; in Tuscany, 
near the Leaning Tower of Pisa, are many of my tribe, and 
one of us can do the work of four horses. We have been 
domesticated even in the Canary islands and in Southern 
Texas in the United States, and are being trained to make 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 19 

the overland trip to California. We like the coarse, bitter 
weeds and plants that grow along the margins of the desert, 
and eat with satisfaction and good digestion what the horse 
despises. My name is sometimes ''Alaherry'', but, as a 
rule, our owners do not think enough of us to give us indi- 
vidual names. We have no desire for a house, and when 
left unattended stray aimlessly about and are at home ''any 
old place", like the Bedouin. We can travel fifty miles in 
a day of ten hours, summer or winter. We are the 
forbidden animal of Leviticus, in that we chew the cud but 
divide not the hoof. But Leviticus was prejudiced. We 
were servants of Abraham and his children, and carried the 
war implements of Semiramis, Cyrus and Xerxes. As we 
wandered through the streets af Haifa, Tyre and Sidon, we 
slightly paused and looked enquiringly up and down each 
alley, being the original rubbernecks. We also have a 
rubber-like hoof. As we stalk on the mimic scene in the 
Passion Play at Oberammagau we vividly recall the Saviour 
of the world, who always looked upon us with pitying eye 
as we passed through Galilee and Jerusalem. We walk 
on our padded feet with noiseless step, glide, like a ship of 
the desert. We have carried the rich merchandise of 
Cipango and the Far East to the headv/aters of the Caspian 
Sea and Black Sea, thence to be shipped to the wharf 
Schiavoni of Venice, and so distributed all over Europe. 
Indeed, when a boy, Marco Polo, the Venetian, mounted 
our back at Para. We safely carried him through the 
Caucasus and as far as to the walls of Pekin, returning 
with him forty years later to the shores of the Mediterra- 
nean, whence he voyaged to the Piazzo St. Marco, was 
captured by the rival Genoese in a sea fight, imprisoned at 
Genoa, wrote his travels, and so stimulated Columbus to 
discover America — a good thing for Europe as well as 
America; — thus forming three links necessary in that chain: 
the transporting, patient camel, that carried Marco Polo, 
who saw and wrote; Columbus, who read and discovered. 
Our limit is one thousand pounds. We groan when the 
load is strapped upon us by our Arab masters, and groan 
when it is unstrapped and taken off, but why we do that is 
a mystery. We never kick and rarely bite, though sorely 
tempted. The unfeeling Jew shoemaker who spurned the 



20 THE OLD WORLD 

Saviour of the world as he bore, fainting, his cross along 
the ci-uel Via Dolorosa, has been justly compelled to wander 
ever since, from the frozen snows to the burning equator; — 
we are compelled to wander without any fault or crime 'on 
our part, and have always been the servant and benefactor 
of mankind, rewarded with no bed or shelter and only bitter 
weeds for food. We have been in all ages in Asia the great 
overland route, and know well every foot of the roads 
extending from the Yellow Sea through Thibet, across the 
table- lands where rise the Tigris and Euphrates, even as far 
as unto Para and Stamboul, down through Palestine into 
Egypt, by the Nile, through Memphis, under the shadow of 
the Pyramids, even up to Assouan, past the falls into the 
boudan. Our flesh is as sweet as that of the ox, our milk 
as that of the cow; our hair is woven into kaftans, and 
when we die we expect our bones to be carved into knife 
handles and our hide to be tanned into leather. Our souls, 
It we have any, will finally be at rest, we hope. Selah- 
balem. 

Written, March 17, at Jerusalem. 

THE SAVIOUR 

"Ye shall know the truth and 
the truth shall make you free." 

Commencing with Abraham, forty-two generations are 
mentioned by name by two of the Evangelists of the New 
1 estament, Matthew and Luke, recording the ancestors of 
the Lord and Master, all princes of the line of Abraham and 
the house of David. This was a foundation for hereditary 
traits laid in the best blood of Jud^a, who had, the first of 
men evolved the highest and purest concept of a single 
Ood and religion. His father, Joseph, and mother, Mary, 
in their annual journey to Jerusalem, repaired to Bethle- 
hem, hard by their ancestral home, and, crowded out of the 
inn the babe, Jesus, was born in a stable and laid on a 
cloth on the hay in a manger. In eight days he was 
circumcised. On the 12th of March I visited this place and 
looked upon the sacred spot. Herod, the ruler of the Jews, 
hearing a rumor of his birth, ''sent forth and slew all the 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 21 

children that v/ere in Bethlehem, and in all the coasts 
thereof, from tvvo years old and under". Joseph, being 
warned, fled with the Child and his mother into Egypt. 
Having no friends nor money, the^^ stopped in a cave near 
Cairo, over which the Coptic church was built in the 
Seventh century after. I stood within the cave February 
27. Joseph hearing of the death of Herod, cautiously 
returned to Palestine, avoiding Jerusalem and going straight 
to_ Nazareth, his home. Here he was known as "the 
carpenter", and here the child increased in wisdom and 
stature and was "subject" to his parents, giving an example 
of "obedience". His father and mother, as good Jews, 
resumed and continued their annual visits to Jerusalem, 
always taking Jesus with them. At the age of twelve 
years — puberty, the first epoch— the time with the Jews 
when youth attained its legal majority, at Jerusalem Jesus 
was admitted to the temple on an equality with the Elders, 
wearing on his head covering a badge showing his privilege, 
to this day worn by the Jewish youth in Jerusalem, as seen 
by me during my sojourn in the ancient city. Separated 
from his family by the throng, he was searched for by both 
father and mother, who each thought he was with the other 
and went out of Damascus gate homeward. Having gone a 
day's journey the^^ waited, and, coming together, discovered 
that he was not with them. They returned and found Jesus 
in the Temple, sitting in the midst of the learned, disputing 
with them. They were much amazed. He explained to 
them. He must be about His "Father's business"; show- 
ing that at this early age he was conscious of His mission. 
I stood by a remnant of the wall of the Temple March 15th. 
In Nazareth he plied the trade of a carpenter, under Joseph. 
Each artisan in David street devotes himself exclusively to 
the manufacture of articles of his trade, chairs, sandals or 
kaftans. This I saw and noted. Eighteen years now pass 
by. His father, Joseph, is no more mentioned. Mary 
survived him. Jesus, by tradition, was of medium height, 
good figure, excellent health, with strong arms and legs, a 
good walker for great distances. He went up from Nazareth 
to Jerusalem repeatedly during these eighteen years, a dis- 
tance of sixty miles or more, accompanied by his mother or 
brethren, using a donkey for packing the tent, clothing, 



22 THE OLD WORLD 

provisions and cooking utensils. Next to the body the 
kombas, over tliat a robe, falling straight, the second tunic 
fastened with a sash; over all the kaftan, coarse, strong 
and striped, of camel's hair, usually; on his head in folds 
the keffie, kept in place by a light, soft, black rope, the 
algal ; on his feet leather boots, first red, then discolored by 
the dust of the highway. Jesus had a seamless garment, 
knit by Mary, liis mother. With staff in hand and eye 
ahead for the path, they tramped easily six miles an hour. 
To this day the same custom of walking prevails with the 
common people. When they want to go anyv/here they 
start out and v/alk. They are all famous pedestrians with 
strong legs and large feet. I witnessed this at Jaffa Gate, 
on the road to Bethlehem and to Jericho. 

At thirty years of age Jesus had walked repeatedly 
through all the towns around Galilee, down the Valley of 
the Jordan, from Jericho to Jerusalem, through Bethany and 
Bethpage, over the Mount of Olives and to other cities, and 
had become familiar with every town, road, mountain, val- 
ley, river, brook, pool, tower, cave and temple throughout all 
Judaea, as was fit, seeing he was native and to the manor 
born. I traveled in a carriage, being unable to make such 
journeys on foot, followed in his footsteps and verified many 
of his journeys. 

The land abounds in legends of him, and here the whole 
scene is redolent of his memory. His name is revered by all, 
in a way even by Arabs. No one would dare to indulge in 
levity concerning him. His character, deeds, sayings and 
presence in spirit dominate the land to a degree, and all 
feel "He is here". The Holy Ghost descended upon Him 
in the shape of a dove, it is said. I stood by the banks of 
the sacred river. He was there tempted by the devil on a 
high mountain and resisted, it is said. The peak overlooks 
the Jordan valley. The beautiful sweet waters of Glias 
spring gush out from its base. I drank of them. 

Matthew, Mark, Luke and John, the Evangelists, follow 
no strict sequence in telling of the Saviour, aiming to give 
the spirit of his teaching. Canon Kingsbury of England, 
Carl Haase of German}^, Ernest Renan, non- Christian, and 
Pere Didon of Notre Dame, and many others from, different 
points of view, have all written lives. 

Written March 17, at Grand New Hotel at Jaffa Gate. 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 23 

JERUSALEM 

March 10, I landed from the propeller T'Zarowitch through 
a boiling surf on a frail boat between the teeth of Andromeda 
Rocks at Jaffa, the Joppa of the Bible. After resting at the 
Jerusalem Hotel, we took train for Jerusalem at 2 p. m., 
passing through the level fields of Sharon, the Valley of 
Ajalon, and past Ramleh, through the mountains, arriving 
at Jerusalem at 6 p. m. A carriage took us rapidly through 
Jaffa Gate to the Grand New Hotel, opposite Herod's old 
palace, now filled with the sultan's soldiers. Next morning, 
from the roof of the hostelry, I surveyed the scene, accom- 
panied by Prof. H. G. Mitchell, arch^ologist. Far to the 
south I could dimly make out the Dead Sea, and beyond the 
Moab country. There lay the deep depression of the 
Jordan valley; to the east, across the Valley of Kedron, 
through which flowed the brook into the pool of Siloam, is 
the Mount of Olives; to the north the Grotto of Jeremiah, 
the Damascus road, the Palace of the Anglican and the 
American Bishop, the Rev. Blythe — whom I met in quaran- 
tine off Beirut, a most lovable gentleman — and the tombs of 
the kings; to the west, a long hill covered with new and 
splendid buildings of Greek, Roman Catholic, and English 
and American Protestant communities; to the southwest 
Mount Zion, with rows of residences erected by Hirsch and 
Montefiore, philanthropists, for colonizing Jews in the 
Zionist movement, beyond the Valley of Hinom. Over the 
whole scene was a cloudless, semi-tropical sky, and a 
delicate atmosphere. The Mosque of Omar outtops in size 
the dome of the Holy Sepulchre. 

Stones are everywhere in Jerusalem. The streets are 
stone, stone the outer walls, stone walls for all the houses, 
stone floors, stone steps, stone roofs and tombs cut deep in 
the living limestone. There are no flues for smoke, no 
fireplaces, no wood, nor soft nor hard coal. There are a 
few knots of Olive trees, brought in from the mountain 
slopes on the backs of donkeys, and charcoal to burn in 
braziers for the cooking of food. The streets are narrow, 
little crooked alleys, David and Christian streets being from 
ten to twelve feet wide. No wheeled vehicles, except near 
Jaffa Gate. Iron bars are stretched six feet high across 



24 THE OLD WORLD 

David street to bar out camels. The sliops are narrow, 
shallow and dingy, arched above to keep out the intense 
heat of summer. The outer walls are broad, deep and 
strong. The city is compact and is a vast fortification. I 
walked out of Jaffa Gate to the right; placed my cane 
against one layer of stone three feet high, and counted 
twenty -two stones to the top. A deep moat surrounds the 
wall. I passed the Dung Gate, the palace of Caiphas, the 
Golden Gate — the gate Steplien passed out to be stoned — 
the Damascus Gate and the new gates, and in eighty min- 
utes returned to Jaffa Gate, where, if you wait long enough, 
3^ou will see all of the great of the earth come in. The spring 
of the Jebusites located Jerusalem. 1 paused at the Golden 
Gate, long since walled up, where Jesus entered, followed by 
his disciples and a very great multitude. They covered the 
ass he rode with cloth, spread their garments in the pathway, 
cut down branches from the palm trees and strewed them in 
the wav; this procession was in March, a Sunday two weeks 
before Easter Sunday. I walked over this ground. Jesus 
immediately vv^ent into the temple and called if "my temple' \ 
He cast oat the merchants and the money changers, threw 
over the tables and seats of those who sold doves and 
denounced them as thieves, and healed the blind and the 
lame, it is claimed. The chief priest and scribes were 
astounded. This was Jesus' official entrance into Jerusalem 
as the Christ, the annointed King of IsraeL The poor 
people "walked", kings "rode" upon asses splendidly 
caparisoned. The white ass was the especial emblem of 
royalty. , He retired to Bethany, to the east of Mount Olive, 
and there lodged. I saw here the house of Mary and 
A^artha and of Simon the leper, his friends. He felt at 
home here; — there was no place for him in Jerusalem; his 
enemies lived there and near the walL Jesus had a human 
side to his character and v/as attached to persons and places. 
I saw upon Mount Olive collateral descendants of the with- 
ered fig tree. During those two weeks he made repeated 
visits to Jerusalem and the Temple, confuted the Sadducees, 
answered the lawyers, told the parable of the Good Samar- 
itan, showing the necessity of humanity to all v/ho fall in our 
way, and nonplused the Pharasees about the Messiah. He 
denounced woes against their hypocrisy and blindness, and 



^^^,^!gr%^^*.JI:^.^ 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 25 

prophesied the destruction of the sacred city; told the 
parable of the ten virgins and described the last judgment. 
On the Hill of Evil Counsel, which I saw in my walk around 
the walls of Jerusalem, they conspired against him; Judas 
sells him for thirty pieces of silver; he eats the passover; 
he institutes the last supper, — I was in the room where it 
was said to have occurred; he prays in the garden of Geth- 
semane, — 1 walked through it March 12th; he is betrayed, 
crucified, dead, buried ; his sepulchre is sealed and v/atched ; 
the third day he arose, it is said; appeared numerous times 
to his disciples and, forty days after, in the presence of his 
disciples and a great multitude, from Mount Olive he was 
received up into heaven, as it is said. 

All this is related by Matthew, Mark, Luke and John, 
and in numerous letters written by Paul to Christians at 
Rome, Corinth, Colosse, Thessalonica; to Timothy, to 
Titus, to Philemon, to the Hebrews; by James, by Peter, by 
John and by Jude. The argument made is: "Conceded 
that there is a God, omnipotent and omniscient, all things 
are possible to such a God, even that He could send His 
messenger upon earth to teach men morality and reveal 
tothem immortality." These records wereconfided to the 
church and the saints, preserved and handed down to us, it 
is said. Many believe them all to be true. 

PALESTINE AND SYRIA 

On the Eastern Mediterranean, March 20th 

Helena, first of Christians, the mother of Constantine the 
Great, Emperor of the Eastern Empire whose seat was 
Constantinople, impelled by religious ferver, went to Jeru- 
salem, located Calvary, the sepulchre of Christ, and 
resurrected from the debris of five centuries numerous 
sacred relics, as she claimed. The immense holdings of the 
Eastern Catholics, known as the Greek or Russian Church, 
in and around Jerusalem, especially on Mount Olive, 
enclosed by ponderous walls whose rights not even the 
sultan himself would disturb, date from this memorable 
period. Russia bases whatever claim she may have, through 
the Greek Church, back to this time. Everywhere in Pal- 



26 THE OLD WORLD 

estine the Greek Catholics have their homes in churches, 
shrines, convents and monasteries, whose titles are hoary 
with the prescription of centuries;— all this to the deep- 
seated envy of the Roman Catholics. 

Peter the Hermit, inflamed and indignant at the cruel 
treatment of returning pilgrims by the Turk, throughout all 
Italy preached the first crusade, in the tenth century, so that 
the fervor spread through Europe, impelling a straggling 
army of men and boys to the rescue of the Sacred Shrine. 
Italy lays its claim from this time. Godfrey de Bouillon 
and Phihp Augustus of France led armies to the Holy Land 
and planted their banners on the walls of the ancient city. 
bt. Louis started there and died on the way. France harks 
back to this time and remembers that Frenchmen led by 
Napoleon I dyed the plains of Sharon, the valley of Ajalon 
and the walls of Acre with their heroic blood. 

Frederick I, Emperor of Germany, in 1189 led a valiant 
army over the stony passes of Lebanon and through the 
white heated limestone roads of Palestine, and the present 
tmperor V/illiam 11, in 1898, 709 years later, encamped 
before the Gate of Jaffa, clad as a knight crusader in full 
panoply of war, with his retainers. They were com- 
pelled to widen the Gate of Jaffa by tearing down a part of 
the ancient wall to let his cavalcade make the grand entry, 
fcverything in Jerusalem now dates from the German 
fcmperor's peaceful conquest. His and the Empress' 
portraits adorn the walls of the Grand New Hotel. He 
said, I have no faith in Gordon's Golgotha. 1 do believe 
this Helena's church, is the right spot." William also is 
tmnking about getting a foothold in the Holy Land. The 
eftigies of many bold knight crusaders, cut in stone, with 
legs crossed, adorn Westminster Abbey, in London, and her 
own Richard, King of England, he of the ''lion heart", 
with ponderous battle-axe, made his mark upon the closed 
gates of_ Jerusalem. England does not forget this. 

In 1856, by the treaty then made between the European 
powers and the Sublime Porte, the Ottoman ruler laid the 
nattering unction to his soul that never thereafter would 
there be any interference in the internal dissentions between 
the Druses, the Maronites, or the Syrian Christians in his 
empire by any European power; so that these warring sects 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 27 

of ''Christian dogs" could bite and fight and destroy each 
other, to his intense and secret satisfaction. Nor were his 
sateHites and sympathizers slow in fomenting those inter- 
necine Christian strifes, resulting, in 1860, in a massacre 
led by Ahmed Pasha of Damascus, in the murder of six 
thousand Christians in that city and eight thousand in the 
Lebanon region. Condignly was he punished. Napoleon 
III landed an army from French battleships off Beirut of ten 
thousand soldiers and marched to the scene of conflict; the 
sheik suffered decapitation. A new convention of the six 
Christian states of Europe, Russia, Germany, Austria, Italy, 
England and France, established a protectorate over the 
Lebanon region and the Maronite, Druse, Syrian and other 
Christians there, under which, as industrious mechanics, 
merchants and farmers, they have in forty-two years 
prospered amazingly, it is said. This, in my opinion, is the 
entering wedge. It is the leaven which will leaven the 
whole lump. What Christian Crusaders, warring among 
themselves, failed to accomplish six hundred years ago, 
being easily defeated piecemeal by the Saracen hero Saladin 
and the Mahometan generals, the present European powers, 
by their united armies and diplomacy, will in time effect- 
ually secure. The relative conditions and qualities of the 
Orient Infidel and the Western Christian have, in the lapse 
of long ages, been quite reversed. Such is the blighting 
effect of Moslem misrule and the elevating power of true 
Christianity. The Holy Land will yet be wholly redeemed, 
made prosperous, sanitary and decent; safe dwelling place 
for all Christians of all sects and a comfort to all Christian 
pilgrims. 

Conversations with Durazzo, Benunes, Mahmoud Abdel- 
eaham, H. Wutzler of Mussone; Capt. and Mrs. Farquah- 
son of the Royal Engineers in the Imperial Service in India; 
Francesco D'Onofrio of Napoli; Count Salita Petrario, 
Rev. Edw. W. Stevenson, Philip Henrico; Rev. H. H. 
Jessup, for forty years missionary at Beirut; Mr. William 
Libbey of England; Mr. Edward Spices of Pentland, Eng.; 
Dr. Seigfried Heller of Vienna; Abdallah Beydoun, an 
intelligent Arab; Mr. Wm. J. Lowstutes; Mr. John Ban- 
bury, ex-mayor of Woodstock, Eng.; Henry M. Tyndall; 
Badie Houranie, an old citizen of Beirut; the Rev. Griffith 



28 THE OLD WORLD 

Thomas, a most eloquent Protestant minister; Richard 
Colledanis, captain of the propeller Semiramis; Abraham 
Jecheu; Leo Eisenstein of Vienna; Elias Talhamy, a 
ClTi-istian Arab; Yanni G. Paulo, an humble Christian of 
Jaffa, born m Athens, who was our courier to Jordan and 
Jericho; Isadore Salom of Wein; Nicholas C. Rossides of 
Limosol, Cyprus; Mr. Henry W. Davis, our lonesome 
American consul at Alexandretta; D. G. Lyon of Cam- 
bridge, Mass.; the American Consul of Jerusalem, Mr. 
Merrit; Carlo Persino, the brilliant Count Carino of Italy, 
on board the fine propeller Electra; the intelligent, cour- 
teous, accomplished and well-informed Dutchman, Mr. J. 
C. Cramer of the Hague, Holland, formerly Minister of 
C^ueen Wilhelmena of Holland; and especially the amiable, 
the Right Rev. G. Hopham Blythe of Jerusalem, upon 
whom, by invitation, I called in his Episcopal palace west 
?/ .^^^usalem, near the tombs of the ancient kings of Israel. 
With all these and many other learned, intelligent and 
^^^^[f gentlemen, scholars. Christians, Greeks, Europeans 
and Mahometans, I conversed en route, on shipboard, on 
railroads, in carriages and at hotels, throughout Palestine, 
hrom them and former investigations and present personal 
observations, I base my views and wishes of the complete 
redemption of the Holy Land from Moslem taxation, 
plundering rapacity and misrule. Not one syllable during 
all my journeyings did I hear in favor of the overbearing, 
cruel and exacting sultan. 

PRINCE RULOFF 

'Tisthe land of the East, where all, save 
the spirit of man, is divine.— Byron. 

f.fhpr"'-p ''i''^ ^'''^ 'T^ ""^ ^^^' "^ ^""'^ to his indulgent 
Q..f 'n ''^^'^'' ^ "^^^h to go abroad and see the world " 
So the Emperor replied, ''There lies my good steam yacht 
m he harbor of Lune de Meer. Go takf her, lake" 

LTt.hl'/Z' ^' "^T^ ""^"^^ ^' ^^" "^^^' ^"d a retinue 
suitable for one of your station. Go east, as Vasco De 

Gama did centuries ago, around the whole world, visiting 

all lands, acquainting yourself with all nations as becomes 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 29 

one who is to be a ruler of men, and come back in good 
time to your home and you shall be welcome." Gaily the 
young prince went forth on his voyage and in due time 
returned from the west, through the narrow straits. His 
father was pleased to see the manifest improvement in his 
son's manners and character. He had been inclined to a 
certain levity. There was great rejoicing in his splendid 
capital among his loving subjects, who lived like one large 
family, and had a pride in their well -beloved Emperor and 
his long line of glorious ancestors. The prince became the 
darling of the people. He had grown well in stature and 
by nature walked a very king among men. Long and 
anxiously the Emperor's councilors had sought among the 
princesses of every foreign capital for a suitable life com- 
panion for their young master. 

The heir of the ancient Empire of Christodora must have 
a wife his equal in birth and accomplishments. 

There lived at that time in Aurelium, a small kingdom by 
the North Sea, a young princess just budding into woman- 
hood, the pride of her fond father's heart. 

After the grand tour of the world and a rest, young Ruloff 
made a voyage to this kingdom, was invited to the palace, re- 
mained there a week, and such were the graces of his person 
that unconsciously to herself he entirely won the heart of 
Marguerite, the king's daughter. "Oh," she said, in her 
girlish, enthusiastic way, "1 would consider any lady that 
could have you perfectly happy!" Gallantly the young 
prince replied, ''You can be that lady." But it was merely 
a compliment. After the departure of Prince Charming the 
young Esmerelda thought constantly of him and longed to 
have him return. She so importuned her over-fond father, 
the king, to send for him and arrange a matrimonial alliance 
that he had to yield against his better judgment. In due 
time the young scion of the house of Christodoro arrived 
and was entertained at a sumptuous feast. He desired to 
ride through the environs of the beautiful capital. The 
king kindly furnished a carriage and mounted guard. This 
the prince dispensed with, saying he would rather go 
incognito. After one turn around the public garden the 
young man arose and handed a Havana cigar to the driver, 
told him to drive out in the surrounding country and return 



30 THE OLD WORLD 

in a couple of hours as he wished to go across the square. 
The driver returned and drove around until four o'clock the 
next morning without finding his charge, and then reported 
to the palace. The king, in alarm, sent soldiers to search 
every public place, cafe and resort in the city without 
avail. Finally, at five o'clock, the visiting young lord 
returned. The king then sent detectives and found that 
he had spent seven hours in a room in the Hotel Belleview, 
where he had lodged an actress, Mile. Estelle Roussillon, 
who had accompanied him on the railroad train on his 
journey. At breakfast the next morning the young guest 
gaily descanted upon the beautiful scenery in the suburbs. 
The king then frankly informed him that his detectives 
had traced him through his escapade, reprimanded him 
severely and sent him home under an escort v/ith a message 
to his father relating his disgraceful conduct. The young 
lady wondered at the sudden departure of her to be lover 
and husband and was inconsolable. Next day appeared in 
the court paper an explanatory notice, alleging the youth of 
the princess as a cause for breaking off the match. Arrived 
under his father's roof he was taken to task and lectured 
for his misconduct. Time passed. The princess pined in 
inconsolable sorrow and vain regret. She caused the in- 
mates of the palace distress by her wretched condition, and 
finally told her father if she could not have her Ruloff back 
she would starve and die. The fond father yielded and 
sent ambassadors to the emperor. Apologies were m.ade, 
the young heir was induced to com.e again to the palace of 
the king. In due time he m.arried the princess and she was 
apparently happy. 

Her life in the home of her young lord and husband was 
not a bed of roses. He neglected her and finally lashed 
her with a whip. He had never loved her. She vainly 
complained to the empress, who sided with her son, the 
pride of his mother's heart. She then went to the emperor 
with her grievance. Bitterly he reproached the youth and 
threatened to send him to the fortress of Herzgovina as a 
prisoner. ''Father," he said, *'I will resign my claim to 
the throne, divorce my hated wife, marry the woman I love, 
with whom I have been intimate for years, take my fortune 
and emigrate to America." "Who is this woman?" ''She 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 31 

is the beautiful Cassandra, a noble lady and a classic 
beauty." **My heavens! my son, what have you done? 
Know you not that lady is your own half-sister, my natural 
daughter? In my youth, I, too, loved unlawfully and was 
intimate with the wife of the ambassador from Adrainople." 
"Oh! Oh!" said the miserable young man, "I will kill 
myself." The next morning in a beautiful summer house 
in the suburbs, Cassandra was found lying dead, with 
Ruloff, dead, lying over her breast crossed; two large, gilt 
candlesticks, lighted, were burning at their head. "The 
wages of sin is death."— Written off Beirut, March 21, on 
board the Electra. 

CONSTANTINOPLE 

HOTEL BRISTOL, Constantinople, April 2. 

The Sea of Azov, the Black Sea, and the rivers tributary 
thereto, pour a vast flood of waters from the rain that falls 
annually on the millions of acres that slope into these 
basins, through the Don, the Dnieper and the Danube. 
This flood finds an outlet through the Bosphorus, the Sea of 
Marmora, the Hellespont and the Dardenelles, into the 
^gean Sea surrounding the Greek Archipelago, thence 
into the Mediterranean Sea, and so into the Atlantic Ocean, 
all without a break in the descent, thus constituting a 
system of inland seas navigable at all seasons of the year, 
by a small pleasure yacht or the great Celtic. The only 
parallel to this chain of inland seas are the great lakes of 
North America, dividing Canada from the United States of 
America, and found to be of inestimable value to us as 
highways for heavy freight transportation, spite of the Sault 
Ste. Marie and the steep descent at Niagara. The very 
key to the waters dividing Eastern Europe from Asia is the 
narrow channel between the Black and the ^gean seas. 
Ages ago, even at the dawn of history, this neck of water 
was predestined to be the center of a mighty population. 
In a radius of ten miles around Constantinople there are 
now one million people. 

Persians, Greeks, Romans, Genoese, Ottomans, Turks, 
Russians and Bulgarians have alternately and successively 
contended for supremacy at this pivotal point, first called 



32 THE OLD WORLD 

Byzantium, then New Rome, after and now the City of 
Constantine the Great; Stamboul (from eis-ten-poHs) ; 
Pera on the European side, and Skutari on the Asiatic, 
being the three divisions. 

At the end of the Sixth century B. C. it was subject to Per- 
sia ; after the battle of Platea to Greece. In 339 B. C. Philip 
of Macedon besieged it and was repulsed. The barking 
of dogs at the light of a new moon and the falling of a 
meteor aroused the defenders; in commemoration, the 
crescent and the star were adopted as souvenirs, and 
transmitted from Byzantium to Constantinople, and so to 
the flag of Islam. The dogs and their descendants have 
ever since been privileged. They are scavengers, are not 
ferocious, but gentle and grateful, sad and diminishing. 
Street cars and hacks driven fast, cold and starvation, are 
killing them off. 

Rome appeared on the scene in 148 B. C. with a treaty. 
In 196 A. D. Septimus Severus captured the city and de- 
stroyed the ancient walls, before that a great safeguard 
against barbarian tribes invading it from the north and east. 
In Z69 A. D. Claudius, surnamed Gothicus, defeated and 
dispersed the Goths; — a column still standing in the Serag- 
lio commemorates this event. In 325 Constantine trans- 
ferred the capital of the Roman Empire to this spot, and at 
the beginning of the Fourth century it monopolized the 
commerce of the then civilized world and was important 
politically. 

In 447 Attila and his Huns were repulsed from its walls, 
with Vandals, Goths, Bulgarians and Persians. In 673 the 
Saracens began a series of attacks that culminated, in 1453, 
in its complete surrender to them under Mohammed II. 
They have ever since held it, spite of the repeated attempts 
of the powerful Empire of Russia to wrest it from them. 
The Russians have coveted Constantinoplefor one thousand 
years. As long as the five Christian Powers act as guardian 
of the Sick Man of Europe, he will keep it. 

The tower of Galata in Pera, the mosque of St. Sophia 
in Stamboul, the museum with the sarcophagi excavated at 
Tyre, Sidon and Haifa; the Pigeon Mosque, the Mosque of 
the Mosaics, and the splendid palaces on the Bosphorus are 
the chief attractions. 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 33 

Leaving Jaffa on March 19th, we sailed past all the coast 
cities of Palestine, Cyprus and Asia Minor, reaching the 
Ottoman capital ten days later. We are now bound for 
Greece. 

THE EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN AND 
THE AEGEAN SEA 

April 3d, on board Sumatra, in Piraeus, off Athens. 
Embarking through the always agitated surf that frets 
the Rocks of Jaffa, on the morning of Wednesday, March 
19th, on board the fme steamer Electra, Captain Petris, in 
the service of the Austrian Lloyd, formerly for years in 
China seas, we proceeded leisurely from port to port, 
touching at Beirut, Alexandretta, all the ports of Cyprus, 
Limosol, Larnaka, Mursina, past the islands of Rhodes and 
Chio, stopping a day at Smyrna, and rounding the promon- 
tory of Asia Minor, up through the Sea of Marmora, through 
the Dardenelles, we finally cast anchor near Galata bridge, 
connecting Pera and Stamboul. On board were a number 
of Austrian tourists, led by Leo Eisenstein, Isadore Salom, 
Nicholas Rossides, J. C. Cramer, ex-consul from Holland to 
Java, Nittorio Lanza, a Greek priest, and Carlo Persino, 
Count of Corino, Italy, and many other unenumerated 
cultivated gentlemen. They did justice to the elegant 
menu, sampled havanas, read the newest books and played 
chess. By invitation I played with Captain Petris a game 
lasting one hour, until our pieces on the board were reduced 
to three for him, two for me — a pitched battle, fought to a 
finish. I also read a copy of the New Testament through 
seriatim, with all the scenes mentioned fresh in my mind, 
and so, understanding^ and critically. What power and 
sweep and depth and strength in the language of Paul, the 
one sent to nations abroad! How frank and free in all his 
confessions! What inspiration of genius and spirituality! 
Over these very seas he repeatedly passed in ships of all 
kinds, making four full voyages between Asia Minor, Syria, 
Greece and Rome. How he glories in his sufferings for the 
cause he once so bitterly persecuted! He tells us his 
tribulations: In stripes above measure, in prisons more 
frequent, in deaths oft, three times beaten of rods; of the 



34 THE OLD WORLD 

Jews he received five times forty lashes save one; once 
stoned, three times shipvv^recked, a night and a day on the 
deep, on these very seas; in journeyings often, in perils of 
robbers, in perils of waters, in perils by his own country- 
men, in perils in the cities, in perils in the wilderness, in 
perils among false brethren, in perils in the sea. His mem- 
ory haunts these waters, his spirit dominates them. What 
Moses was to the Old Testamient, Paul is to the New. In 
yonder city of Athens he preached with power and force to 
the learned and critical Greeks, calling their attention to the 
fact that they had dedicated one temple to the * 'unknown 
god". He was cruelly beheaded in Rome at the end of his 
career. 

SAIDA: THE TOMB OF ALEXANDER, THE TOMB OF 
TABNINTH. ARCHEOLOGY 

April 4, at Grand Hotel, D'Angelterre, Athens, Greece. 

At Saida, on the coast of Palestine, in I887, a peasant 
farmer had occasion to sink a well. He suddenly came upon 
a cavity, explored it and found it contained tombs. Being 
in the sultan's dominions, he was notified. The superin- 
tendent of the royal museum at Stamboul conferred with 
Hamed Bey. Excavations were commenced, resulting in the 
uncovering of an entire necropolis. The tombs and statues 
proved to be of the period about 400 B.C., and the treasure 
trove some of the finest chisselings in Pentelican marble of 
the best period of Athens, in a style the best of the time of 
Phidias and Praxiteles. Due reports, descriptions and 
photos were made. The classic scholars and critics of 
Rome, Venice, Berlin, Paris and London read with wonder 
and delight of these works of highest art, so long covered up 
in the earth, and so providentially disclosed. Many made 
special pilgrimages to see them. 

Ferdinand Paruta, our guide, an intelligent and apparently 
truthful man, born of an English mother and an Italian 
father, in Venice, said that for the Alexander sarcophagus — 
so called because of its elaborate delineations of his battles 
and triumphs, all in high relief, on the four sides^was 
offered a fabulous sum in English money by Queen Victoria 
and refused by the Sultan. The entire sarcophagus, with 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 35 

roof- shaped lid, is marble, about eight feet by four, by six 
feet high. 

There are three others not so large but just as artistic. 
The mourning women cut on one particularly attracted me. 
Such dignity, pathos and sorrow depicted in their faces and 
whole attitudes! Never has such art been attained in the 
two thousand three hundred years that have since elapsed. 

One anthropoid sarcophagus of dark blue granite told its 
own strange eventful history. First made in Egypt, its 
owner, an Egyptian priest, had been resurrected. His 
descendants, of a thrifty turn, sold the coffin to a certain 
Phoenecian priest, an ambitious but economical gentleman, 
who had cut in the Phcrnician tongue an inscription that his 
name was Tabninth, priest of Astarte, king of the Sidonians ;, 
that his body was inclosed with no gold or silver; denounc- 
ing upon vandal hands that might open his tomb that they 
''should have no children and no safe tomb". This being a 
remarkable resemblance to the terrible curse engraved upon 
Shakespeare's tomb in the church at Stratford-upon-Avon, 
Ferdinand Paruta insisted that the ''Divine William" had 
seen and copied it. I called his attention to the anachron- 
ism. He still contended and held to his statement. He 
further stated that the Rev. Tabninth was a manifest liar, 
because gold and silver ornaments decorating his body were 
found and Paruta afterward showed them to me in the blue 
tiled museum across the plaza. The well-preserved skele- 
ton of Tabninth, deceased, was also found under the lid, 
and now rests in a glass case near his coffin. Even the 
intestines were all there, but desiccated. Professors 
Schlieman, Hillpricht, Gutleffesos, Bendofflesos, Guman, 
Bergamo and many continental societies are doing much in 
resurrecting valuable antiquities. 

ATHENS 

Written, April 8th, on the parapet 
of the Acropolis of Athens, Greece. 

The final repulse of the Persians occurred in 431 B. C., 
when Kimon defeated their ablest general in two brilliant 
battles. The intense rivalry existing between the different 



36 THE OLD WORLD 

Grecian cities led to a combination against Athens, resulting 
in Lacedemonian leadership. Under the second Attic 
League Athens was again prosperous until, at Cheronaea, she 
suffered a crushing defeat at the hands of Philip of Mace- 
don. Under the immediate administration of Lycurgus, who 
was a good ruler, the Stadium was built where, in 1896, 
American contestants carried off all the prizes. It is now- 
being reconstructed entirely of Pentelican marble at the 
expense of a public spirited citizen, M. Averoff, costing ten 
million francs. 

Three kings of Pergamos surrounded the theater and 
agora with colonades. In 145 B. C. the whole land came 
under Roman rule, including Macedonia. Ca^s:ir and An- 
, thony favored Athens, although it had sided with Pompey, 
their enemy. Hadrian, the Roman emperor, erected the 
temple of the Olympian Zeus. Herod Atticus erected the 
Odeion. Athens was the university of the ancient world. 
Later on, during the decline of the Roman powder, barbarian 
hords overran Athens and it fell before the Goths. In 1456 
Athens surrendered to the Turk Omar;— Turkish occupa- 
tion lasted three hundred and fifty years. The Venetians, 
whose commerce made them wealthy, disturbed their occu- 
pation in 1464, and in I687, during a siege by Francesco 
Morosini, a bomb fell into the Turkish powder magazine, 
placed in the temple of the Parthenon, reducing to ruins 
the hitherto intact building. In 1821 the standard of inde- 
pendence was raised by the Greeks, resulting, in 1833, in 
the intervention of the Christian Powers. The Turkish 
troops evacuated the city. The Bavarian troops of the 
newly-elected king Otho entered. In 1902, on Monday, 
April 7, by invitation of Carlo Persino, Count of Corino, 
with whom 1 became intimate on board the Electra, he 
teaching me Italian from a book of well -constructed fables 
written by Trillissa, I beheld from the balcony in front of 
his rooms in the Hotel De Etrangers, the procession cele- 
brating the Greek Fourth of July, headed by King George 

I, in his state carriage, the crown princess, sister of William 

II, sitting on his right, diagonally across, Constantino, his 
son, the crown prince, and immediately opposite, his 
grandson, who will be, if lie lives, George II. In a carriage 
following sat Olga, the queen, wife of King George I, niece 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 37 

to the Grand Duke Constantine, who was brother of Alex- 
ander III, late emperor of Russia. All this was explained to 
me by Otho Rizo Rangalie, a prominent Athenian citizen, 
who seemed enthusiastic. Delegations from the artillery, 
navy and army followed the king. Long lines of school 
boys in military costumes contiuend the march, singing, in 
childish treble, the ancient patriotic songs of Greece, to 
inspiring music, just as if they had stepped out of a pro- 
cession delineated on an ancient Grecian vase, so vividly 
described by the poet Keats. I took a snap shot of the 
king and returned to my own hotel, D'Angelterre, where I 
saw him pass on his coming back. The streets were filled 
with dense masses of people, well-dressed, orderly and 
pleased. I heard no cheers. The whole nation seems to 
breathe easier since relieved of the nightmare cf the Turk. 
It is a fact that Lacedemonians, Macedonians, Romans and 
even Goths and Vandals, have all been in possession of 
Greece as conquerors, but all have protected the monuments 
and statues, except the Turks, who have decapitated every 
marble image, as against their religion. All the conquerors 
have loved the Greek people and Greek art, except the 
Turk, of whom to say that he is a ''Turk" is to say all that 
is most odious. Even ''Tartar" does not suffer by oom- 
parison. 

Many times I visited the Acropolis. On April 8th 1 sat 
long on the northeast wall of the parapet. A friendly cat 
sat by me to be petted. I looked with admiration on the 
broken facade of the Parthenon, the vigorous figures of the 
caryatides supporting a porch of the Erechtuem, and the 
stately pillars of the Propylae. From this height, five 
hundred feet above the sea, commencing at the southeast, 1 
could see the Olympeion, Mount Hymettus, the Arch of 
Adrian, the monument of Lysicrates and the Stadium spread 
out below; next, the palace and palace garden, then the 
city stretching far away to Lykabettus, the Cathedral, 
University, the Tower of Winds, the Bazaar, the Stoa of 
Hadrian, and the road that led to Sacred Eleusis, with the 
Convent of Daphni. Going to the bastion southwest of the 
Temple of the Wingless Victory, I could see the Areopagus, 
the Pnyx where Demosthenes launched his phillipics, the 
old and new Phaleron, the Peloponnesus, and, far away, 



38 THE OLD WORLD 

immortal Salamis, in a deep blue sea, reflecting a blue sky, 
and over all a blaze of wondrous sunlight. 

The glory of Athens is a plant that blooms not once in a 
year, nor even in a century: it bloomed once in an aeon, 
but is perennial and everlasting, shedding the perfume of 
perpetual youth and immortality down through all the ages, 
for the blessing and enlightenment of an admiring world. 
Paul preached on Mars hill to Athenians who were religiously 
inclined, and who now are moral, upright and brotherly in 
their daily conduct. I am a Philhellene, and glad of it. 

NOTE.— The front of the Parthenon is covered with 
immense scaffolding for reparing the structure. Taking a 
chisel and hammer from the hands of a Greek journeyman 
stonecutter shaping a new capital of Pentelican marble, I 
cut away for some time; so it is true that I have assisted a 
mite in restoring this unique temple. He informed me that 
the cat that followed we was a patrioic Lacedemonian 
animal which had had one eye clawed out in a fight with a 
white Persian -Turkish cat from Constantinople three years 
back. 

NAPLES: THE MUSEUM, VESUVIUS, POMPEII 

The eruption of A. D. 79, that which was intended to 
destroy, preserved a city; the irony of fate. 

NAPOLI, Rue Partenope, April 17. 

In the Museum, the heroic sized bust of Julius Csesar, in 
the Portico of the Emperors, reveals his character: brow, 
nose, cheeks, jaw, all strong; cerebrum wide and broad; 
back head full and large, denoting executive ability; mouth 
calm, disdainful; antique marble; original; much restored 
— a celebrated bust of the most celebrated man of antiquity, 
indeed, of the world; general, lawmaker, terse writer. 
This bust was selected b}^ the admdring Napoleon III for the 
frontispiece of his Life of C^sar; verifying in every splen- 
did lineament his title to the most commanding intellect ever 
given to any of the children of men. 

The value of his great labors, truly Hurculean, in subduing 
barbarous nations to civil government and law, civilization 
in Europe and America, reaps the benefit of to-day! 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 39 

Caesar, the first of Emperors, occupies the place of honor 
in the center of the seventy-one antique marbles from the 
Farnese, Herculaneum and Pompeii collections that enrich 
this hall, down through Augustus Tiberius — in power at the 
time of our Lord — through Claudius, Caligula, Nero, Cara- 
calla — all odious, cruel and infamous — to Marcus Aurelius the 
Good; to Dominitian, the last of the emperors. 

Winged Mercury, a bronze figure, "new lighted on a 
heaven kissing hill" — as Shakespeare, a true Grecian and 
Roman, by intuition would have it — in another hall, is a 
masterpiece. The Farnese Hurcules, brought by Caracalla 
from Athens to Rome, found in his bath, is muscle-bound — 
an exaggeration. Likevv'ise the over-admired Farnese Bull, 
with four life-sized figures, all in full action. Socrates, 
with flat nose, but full of expression, has written in Greek 
below his bust a sentence extolling the duty of following 
one's "mature reflections". Impossible would it be, in a 
short article, to enumerate the treasures of this wonderful 
museum, erected to the order of Viceroy, Duke D'Ossuni, 
by Cavaliere Fontana, begun three hundred years ago, not 
yet finished, containing objects from Hurculaneum and 
Pompeii, from Capodimonte — the Farnese collection — real 
Museo Borbonico, the Cumaean collection, statues, reliefs, 
bronzes cameos, paintings, bracelets, rings, jewels, more 
than one hundred and twenty thousand, valued into billions 
of lira, revealing the glories of a civilization two thousand 
years old, that even tax-ridden Italy, impoverished by army 
and priesthood, would not willingly part withal. 

On April 12th, from the heights of San Martino, a mag- 
nificent old monastery, with church walls, windows, mural 
decorations, mosaics, gilt altars, lovingly done by the 
monks, the former tenants — now empty and confiscated by 
the Royal Government — I viewed the city of Naples below, 
with its half million people, whose voices sounded like the 
noise of many waters ascending from beneath. I could see 
before me, due south, the Bay of Naples, horseshoe shaped, 
wide, deep, sufficiently ample to float the navies of the 
world, lauded by Horace in his famous lines: 

JSCullus in orhe sinus Baiis praelucet amenis. " 

To the far right Posilipo, on whose harbor- sheltered villa 



40 THE OLD WORLD 

I yesterday partook of fresh fried carp; then Capodimonte 
and the road leading from Virgil's tomb; the island of 
Ischia; to the left Capri, beyond which lies Soronto, the 
residence of the American-born, English-looking, Italian- 
loving, Catholic, artistic novelist, F. Marion Crawford — 
whom I met on the propeller Aller; the Blue Grotto hard 
by, and nearer, on the left, Pompeii, in whose resurrected 
streets and houses I walked the same day; between Naples 
and the buried city, Vesuvius — the etymology of whose 
name is still unsolved by even fifty learned scholars — Vesu- 
vius, sleeping and smoking, like a great lazy Turk, enjoying 
his narghil and his inimitable ''keyeff" — "dolce far 
niente/' otiinn cum di^nitate; and, like the Ottoman, 
liable to sudden and destructive eruptions; to the south, 
the bright sun sparkling on the deep blue sea waves, over- 
arched by a cloudless Italian sky. Oh, Naples! beautiful 
Naples! "Vide J^apoli, e poi mori. " 

Tuesday, April 15, on Toledo street, so named under the 
rule of the Spanish Bourbons, nov/ Via Roma, called the 
Corso, I sat by a table sipping black coffee and noted the 
procession of carriages, a periodical exhibition of the 
beauty, chivalry and fashion of fascinating Naples, a 
wonderful cavalcade, four hours in passing! 

The custodian of the crypt beneath the altar of the 
cathedral, built on the Temple of Apollo, showed in a glass 
case the sacred relic, a forefinger of St. Januarius, passion- 
ately kissed by two Catholic priests and one Protestant 
lady of our party! Twice a year, May and September, a 
bottle is taken from its altar, closed with three locks, the 
municipality, the church and the general of the army each 
holding a key, and before ten thousand devoted, struggling 
Napolitans, restrained only by the soldiers, the blood of this 
martyr is seen miraculously to liquefy and boil, as it is 
claimed. (So salt liquefies in moist weather.) 

Naples' quays are fine. She exports statues of Carara 
marble, bronzes, coral beads, wines, macaroni, paintings, 
cameos and other works of art. Her people are gay, light- 
hearted, intelligent, living in front of their shops and in the 
open air. I love Napoli and the Napolitans; good people, 
brave and handsome. I learned toparlato Italiano sufficient 
to get through with the aid of a pocket dictionary. 



I 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 41 

Our personally conducted tour ended April 14, at break- 
fast, at Hotel De Vesuve. Farewell, companions of the 
voyage. I ate one hundred and ninety-five symposiums 
with the party. 

ROME: IMPERIAL, MEDIEVAL AND MODERN 

Written on Pincian Hill, April 29th 

Leaving my room at 76 Via Da San Nicola de Tolentino, 
in the Hotel Metropole, under whose hospitable roof I 
passed many happj/ hours, my apartment looking out on a 
garden contiguous, visited by white-winged pigeons which 
1 fed every morning, 1 proceed westwardly across the Piazza 
Barberini into Via Sistine to the Pincio, where 1 seat myself 
on a comfortable bench overlooking Piazza Del Popolo. A 
Roman lady passes by leading a muzzled innocent-looking 
King Charles spaniel and gazes curiously at me — Americano 
— with paper pad writing this monograph with handy foun- 
tain pen brought along for the purpose. Here follow these 
abreviated notes made by me: 

Directly in front, across the yellow Tiber flowing between 
walled banks, rises the level heights of Janiculum. I can 
see the church of San Pietro in Montorio, erected to commem- 
orate the martyrdom of St. Pietro, who was crucified head 
downwards. To the left, I can see shining in the sun the 
Passeggiatia Margherita and the bronze statue of Garibaldi, 
the liberator of Italy. Yesterday, with some very dear 
friends, Mr. and Mrs. Mann, of Portland, Ore. ; the learned 
and accomplished scholar, and archaeologist. Dr. J. Howard 
Knight, of Philadelphia, Pa., and wife, six months a resident 
of Rome at the elegant Hotel Eden, I rode in a splendid 
two-horse carriage through the lovely public gardens on 
that hill, the way winding through hawthorne hedges over- 
grown with snowy banks of clematis, beneath which crimson 
cyclamens and scarlet orchids were sheltered from the sun. 
I remember me that on this Pincian Hill where I sit, for 
twenty-five hundred years there have been pleasure gardens 
and elegant villas embowered in sylvan scenes like that 
described in the Lady of Lyons, and there are now such 
gardens here. Here, indeed. Messalina, the wife of 



42 THE OLD WORLD 

Emperor Claudius, reveled in her orgies through the dead 
waste and middle of a summer night, playing hide-and-seek 
in a single transparent silk robe, half concealing and half 
revealing her mature charms, chased by the gilded Antinous- 
like Roman youth; — the prototype in later ages of the 
lustful Catherine II of Russia; — orgies carried on to that 
extent by the Roman matron as to finally disgust even the 
easy, goodnatured Claudius, her husband, who, in intense 
indignation, when she died had her body thrown on a 
common ash cart and carried through the public streets amid 
the scorn and derision of the populace. In strong antithesis 
to this pagan woman, is the sisterhood of nuns near by to 
the left on this same hill, who inhabit Santissima Trinita 
del Monti, and whose sweet and saintly voices intone pieces 
composed for them by Mendelsohn, with choral and organ 
accompaniment at vespers, which I heard last Sunday. 
This church is at the head of Scala Di Spagna, one hundred 
and thirty -seven steps, descending into Piazza Di Spagna, 
where I kodakked Mr. and Mrs. Mann tv/o days since. 

From my seat on this Pincian parapet I can look down on 
Piazza Del Popolo, entered by the gate of the same name, 
known as such through all history. I can see where all the 
victorious Roman armies, entering the capital from the 
north, passed proudly in; where the chariots v/ere driven 
westwardly up through the old corso, now Corso Umberto, 
passing through the Foro Romano, even to Monti Palatino, 
where were the palaces of the nobles. I can see the dome 
of the Church San Carlo on the corso; behind the glass 
roof of the Mausoleum of Augustus, and between the flat 
dome of the Pantheon, in which are deposited m.any bones 
of the early Christians, removed from the Catacombs of St. 
Calixtus, one and one-quarter miles beyond the Porta San 
Sebastiano. I can see the Pantheon, whose splendid bronze 
ceiling in the portico was wrecked to be cast into useless 
canon in the Middle Ages, still to-day one of the best pre- 
served of the monuments of imperial Rome. Beyond the 
dome of this round monument I can catch a glimpse of the 
famed Campagna,the gigantic remains of the old aqueducts, 
so laboriously and ignorantly constructed to supply the 
ancient city with pure water from the mountains beyond, 
among which 1 see Monti Albani, made famous by Virgil in 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 43 

his Eclogues and Idylls, "where my rather fed his flocks, 
you know". Beyond the Pantheon lies the small church of 
San Guiseppe de Falegnami, built over the Career Mam- 
mertinus. a foul dungeon, where cruelly perished Jugurtha 
and patriotic Vercengetorix, after nineteen years imprison- 
ment, by order of Julius Cssar — an indelible stain upon 
an otherwise noble character. This chamber is twelve feet 
below the floor of the church; the level of the Foro Romano 
is eighteen feet below that, revealing three levels created 
by the debris of ages. 

Beyond Monti Palatino lies Monti Aventino, in ancient 
times the dwelling place of the Roman Plebs. To my left 
is Monti Quirinal, Monti Viminal and Monti Esquiline, and 
beyond, Monti Celio. 

Four times, accompanied by companions of the voyage, 
in carriages 1 have made the rounds of all the ancient mon- 
uments, including the Temple of Vesta and the mighty 
Coliseum; many times in isolated cab rides to kodak the 
objects, and on foot and in the tramways for two weeks 
have 1 threaded the labyrinth of stone-paved streets through 
miles of palatial buildings to obtain an accurate knowledge 
of the topography first. On this same Pincian Hill, where 
I sit, I must not forget to mention that Lucullus, arbiter 
eleganti ariiini, and the friend of Cicero, held his feasts. 
In his menu one course was ''nightingales' tongues", and 
here to-day the fashion and chivalry of Rome drive and 
stop to listen to the military band, the dames to sip ices 
and wines, while the gay Italians pay and receive visits in 
their carriages in the afternoon. 

On these enumerated hills and environs was built the 
imperial city of Rome, whose monogram was S. P. Q. R., 
(Senatus Populusque Romanus) ; and within the ancient 
walls lived two million people; the city commenced by the 
legendary Romulus and Remus, but really founded by the 
hardy and brainy Etruscans, as was Athens by the Pelas- 
giahs and Jerusalem by the Jebusites, — the controling 
motive in each case being high hills, precipitous elevations 
for defense against invading enemies. The Hebrews in 
Palestine drove out the Jebusites and developed the religion 
of a single omnipotent God — monetheism. The Athenians, 
saved from destruction by repelling the invading Persians, 



44 THE OLD WORLD 

evolved, in the age of Pericles, a body of Art, in the Drama, 
Architecture, Statuary and Painting that served as prototype 
object lessons to their after conquerors, the Romans, who 
subjugated them but saved and protected their monuments. 
The ancient Romans under C^sar and his successors, the 
emperors, seemed to be inspired with a very phrenzy of 
energy and enterprise, conquering and subduing the Alle- 
mani, Suevi, Vandals, Goths, Scots, Picts, Britons, Gauls, 
Copts, Syrians and Dalmatians, extending their power from 
Assouan in Egypt, Jerusalem in Syria, Byzantium on the 
Bosphorus, Dalmatia on the Danube, to Hispania, to Gallia, 
toBrittania, maintaining till 500 A. D. a wall and a military 
guard to repel the Scots in their raids. Ancient Rome 
developed a military and political power compelling savage 
tribes to submit to order and law, on foundations for mediae- 
val and modern Europe, of signal service to the peoples of 
all after ages in Europe and America. From two millions 
under the emperors, Rome was reduced to fifteen thousand 
after its fall. Between that time and the present, Rome 
has revived, until now, since the liberation in 1871, v/hose 
anniversary is being celebrated this very day, she has again 
reached nearly half a million. From the Fall to the Crusades 
is a dark period, the formative period of medieval Rome, 
and of the Catacombs worship and the early Christians. 

From my seat here on Pincio, 1 can see the dome of St. 
Pietro, raised by the genius of Michael Angelo A. D. 1506, 
behind which 1 have seen the setting sun descend in the 
glorious clouds of Italian skies. To my left in the distance 
is the palace of the king, Victor Emanuelo 111. Here live, 
on opposite sides of the Tiber, the Holy Father, the good 
Leo XIII, the three hundred and thirtieth pope in the line of 
representatives from St. Pietro — whose procession to the 
papal throne along the splendid nave, amid the enthusiastic 
vivas of idolizing followers I witnessed last Thursday — 
living in apparent amity and peace in the same city with 
the reigning king, of the new dynasty, descended from 
Carlo Alberto of Savoy. Here I see before me modern 
Rome, devoted to Art and Religion, filled with four hundred 
splendid churches, in the place of that Pagan Rome which 
crucified St. Pietro and decapitated St. Paul. The very 
irony of fate, a city filled with devoted followers of that 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 45 

religion so unanimously cast out and condemned by Rome 
under the Cassars! Nor is the mandate of this great center 
of Religion and Art yet exhausted. It will continue, I 
believe, to be for ages to come a light unto the whole world 
for Civilization and Religion. 

THE BARBERINI, MEDICI AND BORGHESI 

Hotel Metropole, April 29th. 
Next to the Piazza Da Espagna, in all ages so much fre- 
quented by strangers, following at a distance due south 
through Via Sistina, is the Piazza Barberini (Bees). Due 
south and adjoining, stands the former residence of this 
family, enobled through long years in the Middle Ages by 
signal services to the State, and as cardinals, popes and 
princes of the Church, whose fame extended throughout all 
Europe. I walked in a pensive mood through the high- 
ceilinged chambers, frescoed walls and splendid grounds 
of this princely seat, now in the heart of the city and the 
property of the State, in a portion of which resides the 
haughty and invisible — to common people — Spanish ambas- 
sador. The court, laid out as a garden, contains a statue of 
Thorwaldsen, the great Danish sculptor. On the landing 
of the first floor there is a lion in high relief, from Tivoli. 
The gallery contains the portrait — original and from the 
beginning in this mansion — of Beatrice Cenci, by Guido 
Reno, covered with glass, and in an embossed frame heavily 
enamelled with gold, revealing a young face of great beauty 
and large, soft, lustrous eyes, that look at you with an 
appealing, sidelong glance — whose fate has touched the 
hearts of all sympathetic persons who, in after ages, have 
read her history. This fine, well-preserved portrait is one 
of the art treasures of the v/orld. I made a special trip to 
see it to-day. Near by are the lineaments of her young 
mother and the strong face of her step -mother, who led her 
in the parricide. This gallery is enriched by paintings, 
original, by Titian, Raphael, Claude Lorraine, Albrecht 
Durur, Gastano and Andreas Del Sarto. Some masterly 
portraits of the Barberini still adorn the four upper rooms of 
the old mansion, from which the last of the family exiled 
themselves, being reduced to poverty. 



46 THE OLD WORLD 

Near Pincian Hill to-day I passed and gazed with interest 
at the villa of the Medici (Doctors). Spain, England, 
France, Austria, all have their noble families tracing then- 
ancestors back to the Middle Ages. Yet the Medici were 
themselves the ancestors of kings and princes, were popes 
and cardinals, and excelled them all in personal dignity, 
haughty bearing and intense pride of race. The famous 
Catherine De Medici, of this house, was the mother of 
Louis XIII, King of France, and instigated that gloomy 
ascetic monster to the horrible massacre of St. Bartholo- 
mew's fated night, a picture of which hangs in the Vatican, 
with a legend of derision for the Hugenots, now erased m 
compliance with a sense of decency toward Protestants 
even in this intensely Roman Catholic city. Truly does 
the spirit of the age advance and improve. Ancient reliefs 
are built into the walls of the tastefully decorated garden 
facade of the villa. This property, too, has passed into the 
hands of the State from the impoverished Medici. 

Villa Borghese, surrounded by an estate of many broad 
acres, was founded near 1620 by Cardinal Scipio Borghese, 
nephew of Pius V, and the grounds of the Giustimani gardens 
were afterwards taken in. The once magnificent salon 
still contains many masterpieces of statuary: Appollo and 
Daphne, life size Pentelican marble, pleasing me most; the 
masterpiece Pauline Borghese, as Venus, reclining, by 
Canova, is much admired. Napoleon, during his ten years 
of power in Rome, was proud to be connected by marriage 
with the Borghesi. They, too, are bereft of wealth, their 
property having passed from the last owner, Prince Don 
Paolo Borghese, into public hands. 

The fate of these three noble families is a sad commen- 
tary upon the mutations of human affairs and attests the 
truth of the moral contained in the revolutions of the wheel 
of fortune, the emblem of the pagan Temple of Fortune, 
first erected in this very city of Rome. The princes of 
Piedemonte and the house of Savoy, new nobles, deeply 
scorned by the old, now adorn the royal court of Victor 
Emanuel. 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 47 

FLORENCE 

FLORENCE, Italy, Thursday, May 1st. _ 
Early this morning 1 arose from my comfortable bed in 
Pension Beloit, No. 13 Serristori, facing north on the south 
side of the River Arno, a most aristocratic quarter, inhabited 
by tony tourists, chiefly English, German and American 
ladies. After kodaking the Italian landlady in the view of 
the sunlit facade of the hotel, I took a red car for the Heights 
of ''Piazzale Michaelangelo". Arriving there while the sun 
was only half way up the eastern sky, I had a splendid 
bird's-eye view of Florence, affectionately called ''Firenze" 
by the proud Florentines. Below me ran the swift-flowing 
yellow Arno, taking its rise in the azure-hued Appenines to 
the right and emptying into the Mediterranean Sea, between 
Lucca and the Island of Elba, the second island residence 
of Napoleon I. In its course through the city it stops to 
turn turbine wheels, energizing dynamos, supplying the 
city with electric power and arc and incandescent lights. I 
can see that its five hundred feet of width is spanned by 
five fine stone arched bridges, Ponte De Perro, Ponte alle 
Carria, Ponte Vecchio— this bridge covered with jewelers' 
and goldsmiths' shops, above running a gallery leading from 
Palazzo Pitti to Uffizi gallery. The river is also spanned 
below this bridge by Ponte Allegrazio, over which I repeat- 
edly passed, Ponte Trinita and Ponte Rospego. 

One morning, in going on my way to Palazzo Pitti, I 
accosted a workman in a blouse, who sharpened his knife 
as he walked along by pressing it to the smooth blocks of 
Travertine stone that cover the parapet guarding the stone- 
walled Arno, and had him sharpen in a similar manner my 
four-bladed penknife, bought by me from a Mahometan on 
the Rhamanieh, to replace the one filched by the dragoman 
that ''held me up" on the pyramid of Cheops. The Flor- 
entine workman, in response to my question, knew of the 
fate of the Florentine Savonarola, but did not commiserate it. 
I can see before me in the morning sun that Piazza della 
Signoria, the nucleus of the old city, before which stands 
the square, rough rock-faced medieval Palazzo Vecchio, 
with its high square tower, and Campanile, over whose 
Jion-guarded front door I read the vaunting inscription, 



48 THE OLD WORLD 

"Hex regmn et dominus domajitiuni"; whose embat- 
tled cornice is still decorated by numerous shields and arms 
of the republic, which the present kingly government has 
wisely refrained from pulling down. The bell in its square 
tower was used for calling the people together in public 
meeting. Here in this square, before this venerable old 
pile, perished by hanging and by fire, in the latter end of 
the Fifteenth century, that brave, pious and patriotic Dom- 
inican Friar, Girolani a Savonarola, above mentioned, the 
original picture of whose aquiline and determined face 1 saw 
yesterday in the Uffizi gallery, a copy of which 1 have. He 
was the first Protestant and the Italian Martin Luther. His 
face sanctifies this proud city of the vanished Medicis, and 
overshadows their fame. 

The center of new Florence is the church called the 
Duomo Metropolitana, commenced in the Thirteenth century, 
of gigantic proportions, covered outside entirely with white 
and black marble, giving it a domino effect, dark and 
undecorated inside. It has fine bronze doors, admired by 
Michaelangelo. I can see looming up the square, high, 
detached bell tower, due to the genius of Giotto, which I 
think is the fine thing of the Duomo. 1 can seethe Palazzo 
Pitti, rough stone exterior, whose interior is hung with 
masterpieces of Vandyke, Titian, Rubens, Del Sarto, Vel- 
asquez, Rembrandt, Claude Lorraine and Michael Angelo, 
the very jewel being the Madonna Delia Seggliaof Raphael. 
Into one gallery in the Palazza Uffizi, called the Tribune, 
are crowded, as I saw, thirty-seven paintings and six 
statues worth their weight in fine gold. 

Impossible would it be for me to do justice in a monograph 
to this Athens of Italy, the beloved of Dante; the seat 
of the Guelph and Ghibbeline wars; the place where 
Elizabeth Barrett Browning lived and wrote — her house and 
grave are still shown; whose environs were the marches of 
old Roman imperial legions, and of Hannibal, once the 
terror of Rome and the invading Goths, Huns and Vandals. 
Its magnificent facades and priceless treasures of art so well 
guarded will long survive to adorn, instruct and humanize 
the world. 




GETHSEMANE, MOUNT OLIVE; A MODERN JUDAS. 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 49 

VENICE: ITS INCEPTION, MAGNIFICENCE 
AND DECAY 

VENICE, May 9th. 

The chambered sea nautilus is a marine mollusc, building 
first a small cell for its soft body; later and progressively 
larger and larger chambers, as it crawls from one to another 
— according to Louis Agassiz. 

Build thee more stately mansions, O my soul, 
As the swift seasons roll ! 
Oliver Wendell Holmes' ''The Chambered Nautilus'\ 

This same gauntlet, which I lay down in obeisance to fair 
Christian Venezia, I cast in thy teeth, oh, infidel Saladin. 
—King Richard in the Song of the Troubadour. 

A six hours' ride from Florence, through forty tunnels, 
more or less, in a second-class coach, in company with 
Director Wehrenberg and his new wife; Sr. E. Du Cane, 
of 10 Portman Square, London; Mrs. D. S. Buest, of 22 
Palmyra avenue, Brighton, England, daughter and friend, 
who became friendly in time and at lunch extended mutual 
courtesies, brought the train in over a long pile -supported 
bridge to the Ferro Via Stazione at the head of the Grand 
Canal in Venice. Not the unsoliciting gondoliers nor their 
black gondolas brought me to Quai Schiavoni, but a screw 
propeller ferry carried me swiftly around the big '*S" of the 
canal to the Hotel Metropole. In succession I applied to Hotel 
Danieli, Hotel Metropole and others on this broad quay; 
they were all full. Finally, under the Clock Tower in the 
Capello Nero, 1 secured room 37 on the first floor, on the 
European plan, where 1 had hot water, electric lights, warm 
blankets, featherbed covers (1 slept like a silkworm balled 
up in a cocoon) and good attendance for two and one-half 
lira; greeted every morning when I awoke by a sweetfaced 
marble Virgin blessing two kneeling figures on the wall 
opposite in the calle. For days I have threaded these 
streets, swam in gondolas, traveled on ferries from St. 
Chiara, the most western landing, to the Casino of the 
Lido, where the gentle sea waves break upon the sunny 
beach and where my feet were laved by the salt water as I 



50 THE OLD WORLD 

gathered brilliant shells and bright pebbles on the shore, 
and where looking east across the Adriatic beyond my ken 
was the fairy castle of "Maximilian, the ill-fated", at lovely 
Mirarmar. 

At the end of my pleasant sojourn, where I met J. Wilson 
Gordon, sheep rancher from Australia; Mr. and Mrs. Mann, 
of Portland, Ore. (again); Mrs. D. S. Beust and friend; 
Mr. H. K. Liddington, of the S. S. Monteagle; Mr. Russell 
Wilkins, of Brisbane; Dr. J. Howard Knight, scholar, 
Christian gentleman and hospitable host, his accomplished 
wife and son Charles, and many other affable and intelligent 
ladies and gentlemen, tourists, 1 ascend the three hundred 
and fifty feet of the gentle four- foot- wide spiral incline, up 
which in I797 Napoleon rode on his horse and took a birds- 
eye view of the many- islanded, amphibious city from the 
sixteen net-wired windows of the Campanile of St. Marks, 
— fallen into shapeless ruins the middle of July following — 
from which eerie I took four photographs of the city. The 
city has the shape of a mighty "gauntlet" thrown down by 
some giant crusader ; the bracelets on the east made up of the 
arsenal — Shakespeare's "Sagittary" (Othello) — and the 
Public Gardens, approachable by land from the Quai Schia- 
voni; the root of the "Thumb" made up by the Ducal 
Palace, the Church of St. Marks, the Procuratie Vecchie on 
the north of the Piazza, the Procuratie Nuovo on the south, 
the palace built by Napoleon on the west, enclosing a paved 
court five hundred feet long by an average of two hundred 
and fifty feet broad — the only Piazza St. Marco— on which I 
frequently heard a splendid brass band of fifty pieces 
discourse soul -swelling music from Verdi, Wagner and 
other composers, in the joints of the gauntlet's "Thumb" 
are the theatres Fenice, Goldoni, Malibran and Rossini; 
the Royal Palace, Hotel Victoria and other hotels occupying 
former palaces of the first "merchant princes" of the world. 
At the inside base of the typical "Thumb" is the marble 
Rialto, springing with a single curve across the deep "Alto" 
— Rio — river; beyond which is the market and the "Venice" 
of the Merchant Antonio and of Shylock. At the extreme 
western end, the tip of the "index Finger" of the alleged 
gauntlet, is the Hebrew "Nghedah" Ghiotto, where 1 saw 
the sockets that barred in the Spanish, Portuguese and 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 51 

German Jew refugees under the reign of the so-called 
''Republic", now, happily, of the wretched past. Beyond, 
on the west from the '*lndex Finger" of the imaginary 
glove, extending across the lagoon on many piles, like 
the feet of a caterpillar, I can see from the Campanile 
extending the long bridge of the railway connecting Venice 
with the shore beyond. All this I can see from my perch 
in the Campanile. Also the roofs, the Cafe Segretari — for 
three hundred years have its padrones been pouring out 
black coffee; the Restoratore Luciani, the Trattoria Allu- 
nione in the Rialto, in all of which and many other trattorias 
I sipped cafe noir, ate small oysters and fish and partook of 
many **bifsteaks", roasted ducks and other Bohemian 
repasts in my devious wanderings. 1 can look straight 
down and see on the Piazza the far-famed cafes of Carlo 
Lavena, Quardi, Florian, Allunione Delia Borsa, and Grau 
Cafe. Summer nor winter, day nor night, Florian'sis never 
closed. The gilded Venetian youths walk under the corri- 
dors or this wonderful Piazza, gossip and sip ices with the 
ladies and listen to the strains of the band. Here I saw 
yesterday, erected on three mighty flagstaffs, the gaudy 
colors of Venetian flags, floating in the breeze in honor of 
"Ascension" day, and in the basilica of St. Marks were 
down on their knees five thousand devotees during the mass 
in celebration of that event, the ascension of our Lord. I 
can look down upon the five Byzantian domes of that church, 
which claims the remains of Mark the Evangelist, the patron 
saint of this island city; I can see on the porch of its facade, 
recessed with five splendid doors, enriched by one acre of 
pictured mosaics, the four copper rearing horses, weighing 
many tons, taken by the Emperor Constantine to Constan- 
tinople, captured by the warlike doge, the blind Enrico 
Dandolo, brought to Venice, taken hence by Napoleon in 
1797, returned after his abdication in 1815. I can see at the 
top of the column, facing the broad lagoon and looking east, 
the Lion, typical of the warrior city of commerce, furnishing 
the nucleus of that naval armament resulting in the signal 
victory of Lepante, A. D. 1561; — that Lion, with wings of 
gold outstretched to fly to that East whence came its golden 
merchandise. I can see that formerly deep harbor, now being 
annually dredged, sheltering its old-time flotilla of three 



52 THE OLD WORLD 

hundred and thirty saihng vessels, whence four times a year 
issued fleets to the four quarters of the known world, to 
gather in that commerce of which it had a monopoly for five 
hundred years, resulting in riches beyond the dreams of 
Johnsonian avarice — the squandering of which in brocaded 
garments, laces, palaces, tournaments, tests, carnivals, 
finally brought that effeminacy resulting in the decay of this 
once splendid metropolis, after Columbus of Genoa, its 
hated rival, had given to Ferdinand and Isabel a new world 
— mainly instigated by that marvelous and fruitful book of 
Marco Polo (here born, whose house I saw), recounting his 
travels in Cipango Cathay and the fabulously rich Eastern 
world. 

Venice never was a true republic. The doge was the 
executive president of a council, composing a self- reelecting 
oligarchy existing for strictly business purposes, and who 
crushed all recalcitrants with stone cells and torture, which 
I saw in the ducal palace below me. It was an iron-handed 
despotism, one of the most relentless that ever existed upon 
earth. 

The hotels on the Grand Canal are palatial and magnifi- 
cent, and the art of glass-blowing has reached a high state 
in Venice. 

AN IDYLL OF VENICE 

Written May 7, Capello Nero, Venice. 
The slope of the Alps and the Appenines in the declivities 
of Lombardy and Piedemont, as far even as Savoy, are 
annually swept by alluvial floods from rainfall and the 
melting of the snows, gathered together in the rivers of the 
Po and the Adige, carrying down enormous amounts of 
detritus, gradually spreading over the Gulf of Venice and 
the northern Adriatic, forming sandbars and reefs parallel 
to the coast line, only broken at intervals, at Brondolo, 
Chioggia, Porto Di Lido and Burano, through the necessity 
of exits for the accumulated waters — this going on through- 
out the present geological age; the same process, during the 
same time has been going on in front of Duluth on Lake 
Superior, along the coasts of Mississippi, Alabama and 
Florida. So we may say the islands on which Venice is 
built are the gift of the Po, 



J 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 53 

At the fall of the Roman Empire, a hardy race of men, for 
long ages dwellers in the fertile plains of Lombardy, had 
raised their flocks, had their homes and grown thrifty and 
happy, not without occasional ventures upon the neighbor- 
ing islands of the sea. These men called themselves 
**Veneti", and their chief city *'Vicetia", known to the 
Romans under that name— the ultimate etymology 1 could 
not find out; the root *Vic" is there, same as in "Vincero". 

Repeated raids of barbarian hordes under Attila with his 
Huns and other savage conquerors, despoiling these peace- 
ful shepherds and farmers of their herds and crops, forced 
them in despair and anguish to abandon ancestral home- 
steads and take refuge on the poppy and reed -covered 
sandbars along the coast, where the raiders would not care 
to come. The streams from the Po, the Adige and four other 
smaller rivers had cut channels between the yellow sands. 
The bone, muscle and brain of these fleeing Etruscans 
showed its quality in gradually building new homes and 
achieving prosperity, surrounded by ditches impassable or 
formidable to the restless invaders who were looking for 
larger game. They engaged in fishing with small boats, 
and in adventures to the Littorale and Croatia on the 
shores across the gulf, and in a small comm.erce, their 
vessels gradually growing larger and their trips more ex- 
tended, till they did all the ferrying of passengers and 
merchandise across the northern Adriatic, supplying the 
descendants of their former despoilers with merchandise and 
transportation till, in the course of a few hundred years, arose 
that fair Venice like another Venus, from the foam of the 
sea, resting on her ocean islands and making her toilet under 
azure skies, fanned and cooled by scented summer zephyrs 
lasting half of each year. 

Whole forests of piles from the Appenines were found 
necessary to be driven in the shifting sands to make secure 
foundations of masonry and concrete on which to erect the 
brick and marble of stately palaces, in time found necessary 
to satisfy the new luxury of these proud islanders, enriched 
by an unprecedented commerce gradually extended to all 
the islands of Greece, Candia, Cyprus, Rhodes, and the 
eastern Mediterranean, Syria, Asia Minor, the .^gean and 
Black seas, the Sea of Azov, and even through the Overland 



54 THE OLD WORLD 

Camel Route to Far Cathay, Cipango and China, constitu- 
ting for a half millenium, in connection with the western 
seas, the Bay of Biscay and the North Sea, to which they 
annually sent forth numerous argosies, a commerce and a 
monopoly unexcelled in the liistory of the world, making 
them ocean kings and millionaires to that extent they could 
erect ten miles of palaces along the Grand Ganal, the Riva 
Degli Schiavoni, the Rii, campuses, calles and piazzas of 
their enchanted city on the sea, leaving the proud names 
of Foscari, Balbi, Mocenigo, Pesaro, Faleri, Cabot, Polo, 
Dandolo, for the admiration of all men in after ages. 

Egypt stood mainly for Agriculture in the History of Civ- 
ilization, Palestine for Religion, Greece for Art, Rome for 
War and Civil Government, and Venice for Commerce; 
later, Genoa, Spain and Portugal for Geographical Discov- 
ery, and now England and America for Freedom, Toleration 
and Colonization. 

VENICE AGAIN 

Capello Nero, R. Z7 , May 9. 
There are thirty-three enumerated churches of importance 
in this city; of these, in company with Dr. J. Howard 
Knight, at his invitation, I visited three different times in 
gondolas the Frari, Gesuiti, Madonna Dell Orto, S. Giorgio 
Maggiori, SS. Giovanni e Paolo, S. Juliano, S. Maria Delia 
Salute and S. Maria Formosa. The external front of each 
is enriched with marble statues of the Saviour, the Apostles, 
the Virgin and the Saints; the interior decorated in the 
same manner and in addition with paintings by Titian, 
Tintoretti, Raphael, Michaelangelo. Leonardo, Da Vinci, 
Vandyke and other masters. Many of these temples are 
one thousand years old. The marbles and paintings have 
been minutely described by George Elliot. Ruskin, W. D. 
Howells and other critics. I have read Ruskin and Howells 
and believe they aim to be just. They censure as well as 
praise. The religious services, the incense, the ministra- 
tions and the decorations have for ages been of great service 
to the people of this city, as object lessons, to teach them 
what they would otherwise never have known in an age 
when they could not read or write, and have served a most 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 55 

useful, beneficial and commendable purpose. The Catholic 
faith prevails, never abjectly servile to Rome, however. 

St. Mark's has five domes, numerous minarets, and shows 
evidence of the Byzantian influence in the development of 
this city, as do the geometrical designs and repetitions of 
the same arabasque columns and figures in the Ducal Pal- 
ace. Their repetition has the emphasis accomplished by 
the chorus in an opera. It is highly pleasing and artistic. 

This palace and its sumptuous halls, to my mind, fully 
reveal all the grandeur and dignity claimed for them in the 
past. State criminals may never have passed over the 
Bridge of Sighs, as claimed by Byron, yet Marino Faliero was 
imprisoned here in a casement rivaling the dungeons of the 
Petrapavolusk in St. Petersburg, and was for treason be- 
headed in a stone gallery, his blood running down through 
holes cut in the stone floor and dyeing red the blue water of 
the canal under the Bridge of Sighs. I was in the cell and 
subsequently verified the history. Giacomo Foscari, the 
son of Francesco Foscari, at the time Doge, for the alleged 
receiving of presents from foreign princes, was unjustly 
imprisoned and banished and died in exile in Candia. His 
old father was ignominiously forced to resign, and died of a 
broken heart. 

The streets of this city are all smooth blocks of limestone, 
on one grade — just above high tide — the bridges precisely 
high enough to permit gondoliers, standing erect, to pass 
under. The floors of all churches and houses are of stone 
mosaic with white and black marble, resembling, in effect, 
dark colored fruitcake; the main walls are soft, hand-made, 
insufficiently burnt, crumbly brick. The exterior walls are 
stucco, stained a yellow streaked hue by the rain and the 
weather. There is no smoke, because no fire. Braziers 
and charcoal are used for cooking. The people suffer in 
winter from prolonged cold; — I can imagine how severely 
by the chill blasts and rain driven through the streets, calles 
and canals to-day by a fierce wind from the Adriatic. The 
broad canal has white caps and a blue tint to-day (May 9) 
like the open sea. The canals are being cleansed by the 
currents rushing through them like a millrace. Many palace 
doorsteps are flooded. There is no dust here; no wheels 
of any kind for transportation, except miles below at the 



56 THE OLD WORLD 

Lido. The family life of the people is in the cafes and the 
trattorias, where they eat very sparingly, every lump of 
sugar and drop of coffee almost being counted. The mass 
of the people are distressingly impoverished. The hotels 
have electric lights and water brought in under the canal 
bridges by pipes from the Appenines. The trade of the city 
dwindles year by year. There is a diminishing commerce. 
The population is one hundred and sixty -eight thousand. 
The city has survived itself. If any wealth exists, the 
Jews and the lace and glass manufacturers have it. The 
tourists are their harvest. Yet to me, this city is unique, 
piques the imagination by its wonderful Past, and will al- 
ways be facinating to the tourist. It is to be hoped that the 
lace, glass, jewelry and other manufactories will have a 
tendancy to revive its ancient glories as an art center. 
Venice is the shell of a chambered nautilus. 

MILAN, ST. GOTHARD, LUCERNE 

May 12th. 
From Venice to Milan the railroad passes on a trestle over 
two miles long, on two hundred and twenty-two arches, as 
level as the sea, — a fine work, costing over a million 
dollars; thence through a fertile region, past Verona, made 
famous by Shakespeare's ill-fated lovers, Romeo and Juliet, 
entering Milan, the Mediolanum of the Romans, the original 
location of which, strange to say, was evidently not dictated 
by strategic considerations. It is a city of great commercial 
importance; population three hundred thousand. I viewed 
it from the dome of the cathedral ; it seemed to be in an 
amphitheater formed by the Alps and the Appenines, 
making nearly a snowy circle around it. I could see below 
me the roof of the old church of St. Ambrose, where so 
many kings were crowned with the sacred and historic 
iron crown of Lombardy, it having pressed the brows of 
Charlemagne and Napoleon I. The iron is said to be some 
of the nails from the true cross woven into the gold circlet. 
In another direction I could see the spire of S. Maria delle 
Grazie, an old abby church. Near by is the refectory con- 
taining on the perspective wall, at the end, the Last Supper, 
the masterpiece of Leonardo Da Vinci,— a fresco, much 



1 



1 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES S7 

damaged by dampness and scaling off, yet each face is a 
portrait, and a wonderful air of dramatic action, verity and 
sanctity pervades it. I could see from the roof, in the dis- 
tance, at the end of the Public Garden, on the road leading 
to Simplon, the Arco della Pace, commenced by Napoleon in 
1807, and not completed till after his fall. A subsequent 
near view impressed me with it as the fmest monument of 
the kind I had seen. The cathedral below me, five hundred 
feet long, three hundred feet wide, central spire three hun- 
dred and sixty feet high, with its two thousand statues and 
pinnacles, a Gothic structure half a thousand years old — 
begun by Visconti as a penance for a crime — is a flawless 
masterpiece, inside and out. Looked at with the naked 
eye or through either end of a field glass, its proportions 
are in perfect harmony and symmetry. 

The railroad from Milan north passes, at Chiasso, into 
Switzerland, past romantic Lake Como, through ten miles of 
St. Gothard tunnel, to Fliielen, where I took boat across 
twent3/-three miles of l.ake Lucerne, hallowed by memories 
of Arnold Winkeiried and legends patriotic of William Tell, 
immortalized by Thorwaldsen's stone lion, commemorating 
the brave Swiss guard of the Tuileries. 

LUCERNE, TELL, PROF. WYSARD, SCHAFFHAUSEN, 
STUTTGART 

May 13th. 
At Chiasso, the frontier town of Italy adjoining Switzer- 
land, I made the acquaintance of Rev. A. Wysard, of 184 
The Grove, London — (we exchanged cards, his bore this 
legend) — his genial and instructive companionship extend- 
ing even to Lucerne, where he pointed out the Hotel du Lac 
to me, which provod to be an exellent hostelry. Mr. Wy- 
sard and I raised up the little table in the second-class com- 
partment on the cars — (I have noticed that many first- class 
people ride in this division) ; we placed thereon our hard- 
boiled eggs, bread, cake, and he his Vin Ordinaire. A 
sweet-faced young American girl, whose luggage 1 had 
placed for her on the wire shelf, gave us a cake of fresh 
butter from her store (a Venetian padrone would easily have 
added fifty centimes in the bill for it), with a winning smile; 






58 THE OLD WORLD 

and so we talked of Prof. Louis Agassiz—whom I personally 
knew at Cambridge,--of paleontology, of zoology, geology, 
—grand object lessons of it in these upheaved and inverted 
strata of the ancient world, before plants and animals 
appeared to gladden and enliven; of Caesar, who was 
assassinated by his countrymen in the senate chamber at 
Rome; of how, ever since, Italian assassins had sheathed 
the stiletto inhuman flesh; had killed the excellent Carnot, 
President of the French Republic, the Empress of Austria, 
an inoffensive lady, mingling freely with the common people. 
''The assassin", he said, "should have been immediately 
lynched a; la Americanry, and had recently tried to kill 
his keeper (he is in life confinement), and of the senseless 
assassination of King Humbert, who was a good man. He 
talked, also, of Arnold Winkelried gathering to his breast 
Austrian spears, and of patriotic William Tell, whose chapel 
on the right bank of Lake Lucerne he eagerly pointed out 
to me after we took boat at Fluelen, the small but swift 
sidewheel- steamer Ganymede. In turn he showed me the 
Denkmal von Schiller, whose name is seen glittering on the 
Mythenstein above the blue waters of the Urnersee, and 
who made Tell the hero of his greatest drama, and whom 
the people of Germany allowed finally to starve. 1 repeated 
to his delight some lines from Schiller's Die Glocken , 
which came back fresh to my memory where they had lain 
in the sensitive "emulsion" of the film on the brain till 
suddenly "developed", forty years after, on the very scene 
which they commemorated. Prof. Wysard believed faith- 
fully in Tell. I related to him that 1 had heard a lecture by 
Prof. John Fiske, in the amphitheater of the Art Hall at St. 
Louis , the very winter he died, demonstrating Pocahontas 
saving of John Smith, true history; but William Tell apure 
myth, manufactured out of the vivid imagination of the 
brave and patriotic Swiss, which, however, the legis- 
lature of the Swiss Confederation had solemnly and 
officially declared to be untrue and not founded on fact— a 
strange function for a political legislature to perform. Prof. 
Wysard said I must not repeat that in Lucerne, where all 
the natives firmly believed in William Tell. He rehearsed 
for me how Tell refused to bow down to Gessler's hat at 
Altdorf ; the secret arrow that dropped from his unbuttoned 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 59 

vest, which he frankly said was for the tyrant in case he 
had killed his son; the wild night on the lake when he was 
taken prisoner by the Austrian officers; their ignorance and 
fright, compelling them at last to give the helm to their 
prisoner, when Ttll craftily guided the frail boat to this 
point, jutting out from Axenburg, leaped ashore, and 
spurned the frightened crew away with his foot, leaving 
them to their fate on the dark and angry waters. The 
Professor suited the action to the word and pushed an im- 
aginary boat with his left foot, jumping high up on his right. 
He then sang perfectly through every bar of the Swiss 
Tyrolese Yodel with great expression. We were on the 
upper deck of the splendid little vessel. He had divided his 
wine with me. He insisted on showing me how to get rid 
of five miserable Italian lira which, bearing the discounted 
image and superscription of ''Vittore Emanuele", would not 
pass anywhere in Helvetia. He found with the stewardess 
a bottle of unusually sv/eet and fine flavored wine (Die 
Wilde Kirche), examined the brand carefully, she being 
kind enough to take these disgraced lira for the bottle. It 
was large and we had many pulls at it. It was not as good 
as some he had previously tasted of the same name. 

Well, I had repeated and acted for me on the very lake of 
the Vierwaldstattersee Uri, Schwiz (etymology from' Sweden, 
whence the first settlers had emigrated one tliousand years 
ago), on Walden and Nid Walden, by a native learned 
Swiss — my companion. Prof. Wysard — there, as he said, 
on an annual vacation, the drama of William Tell, with 
historic Rutli, Brunnen, Beckenreid, Weggis, Witzan and 
Seelisburg; the deep blue waters of the lake beneath us, 
the cloudless sky above; the snow-caps in the wild and 
picturesque mountains of the Hoch Alps, unsurpassed for 
grandeur and beauty, all around us as the misce en scene 
and stage accessories; — a truly unique and inspiring expe- 
rience! No wonder the poet Frederick Schiller had left the 
prosy confines of his undecorated humble room at Stuttgart 
and come here to saturate his brilliant imagination in the 
scenes of Vierwaldstattersee, hallowing and enshrining 
such a patriotic legend! Later, I made a special journey in 
Stuttgart to find his statue, a noble work by Thorwaldsen, 
near the famous Stiftskirche, clad in a long cloak and looking 



60 THE OLD WORLD 

pensively down as if composing, and did not consider one 
film No. 11 of my carefully husbanded emulsion wasted by 
limning his grand figure thereon. 1 was glad to see that in 
the hurly-burly of twenty thousand of the empemi s wel - 
fed soldiers marching through this proud capita the people 
of Stuttgart, the capital of Wurtemberg, had honored in 
death the poet whom they had unwittingly neglected in 
life, and that on four sides of the base of his monument 
hung four fresh wreaths of laurel and immortelles. All 
honor to the Shakespeare of Germ.any! , ,^ ^ 

I found much at Lucerne to interest me: In the lower, 
from which hung the Lantern (Lux) in Roman times as a 
beacon, giving the place its name; in the Muhlenbrucke 
with the quaint pictures of the Dance of Death celebrated 
in Longfellow's Golden Legend; in the swift y flowing 
Reuss, that passed out at the lower end of the lake, having 
collected all the torrents of the St. Gothard (at the mouth 
of the tunnel of that name at the exit 1 left the car and took 
the picture of Prof. Wysard, who was more interesting to 
me than a Greek chorus, which I shall treasure as a souvenir) 
and all the waters of the wild mountain gorges^ in tne 
two hundred miles of broken coast line, being repiemshec 
by the Muotta from Canton Schwyz, and at Buochs and 
Alpnach by the Engelberger Aa and Sarna-Aa from Canton 
Unterwalden,— all these collected waters, as from a mighty 
reservoir, flowing northward in the Reuss until they meet 
the three other rivers of central Switzerland, the Linmat, 
the Aare and the Rhine, and so flow past many a high tower 
and castle wall, till they empty into the German ocean. 

Leaving this lovely lake and mountain region, the sani- 
tarium of all Europe, I passed out by Schaffhausen and its 
famous falls, the Black Forest and Stuttgart, where, on the 
heights of Engenplatz, I overlook this valley-sheltereci 
ancient city of one hundred and seventy-five thousand 
people. 

FROM STUTTGART TO MAYENCE; DOWN THE 
RHINE TO COLOGN 

Koln, May 15th. 
My route northward, starting on May 15th from Lucerne, 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 61 

took in the towns of Zurich, Egilsav, Schaffhausen, Immen- 
dingen, Konstanz, Stuttgart, — where I stopped at the Hotel 
Royal and made a short stay, well repaid by rest and my 
acquaintance in this ancient city. From Stuttgart, starting 
at 5:55 a. m., with a well prepared lunch, not having time 
for a good breakfast, I passed by Ludwigsburg, Mannheim, 
and famous Heidelberg, of the old castle, the big tun and 
the university renowned for its duelling students, who think 
the autographs written on their cheeks by the rapiers of 
their opponents so many tokens of honor. I remembered 
me pleasantly of our own brave, patriotic and learned fel- 
low citizen of St. Louis, Mr. E. F. Bautzer, whose education 
was received here. Thence past Mannheim, Worms and 
Darmstadt to Mayence, where the river Main, having passed 
by the ancient free cify of Frankfort, pours its volume of 
water into the Rhine. The lovely country traveled through 
showed everywhere a cultivation to the finest detail; no 
acres wasted by unsightly fences; the lichen-covered tiled 
roofs of the quaint sharp -gabled houses of the farmers are 
in clusters with a church peeping out from the center; the 
fields of early spring were green except where being plowed ; 
the landscape diversified by m.any geometrical squares of 
the bright yellow mustard, being a volunteer growing wild 
in many places. Leaving Mayence at 1:30 p. m., same 
day, on the splendid sidewheel steamer Lohengrin, I passed 
down the Rhine to Cologne, the **Colonia Agrippensis", 
from the first century of the Romans. 

1 had a comfortable cushioned seat in the enclosed cabin 
of the upper deck, with a topographical map of the river 
spread out before me, used to identify the important points 
as we steamed by, assisted by three other travelers, each 
with different charts of the same region, and especially by 
the learned Prof. Daniel Joel, of Hamburg. 1 saw soon on 
my right Biebrich, with its ducal palace. Not far inland is 
Wiesbaden, where I am told the Emperor W'illiam now is, 
about whom the people here speak guardedly or not at all. 
Prof. Joel commented on the present prosperity of this land, 
but said it was not owing to the milliards exacted from 
France in I87I, which he bitterly denounced as "devil's 
money". He was a fine looking, blue-eyed young German ; 
said he was not married — it required money — and called my 



62 THE OLD WORLD 

attention to four evidently recently married couples in the 
cabin, studying each others' interesting countenances instead 
of the passing landscape. 

On the east bank, half way up the Niederwald, 1 saw a 
colossal statue of Germania, thirty -three feet high, with 
face toward vanquished France, erected to commemorate 
the victories of I8y0-I87l. I saw in Stuttgart, in Mayence 
and in many other places, numerous ''denkmals" of this, to 
them, glorious era. The marching platoons of soldiers, 
mostly lusty young men, are much in evidence; even the 
school children who gathered around my kodak, while I was 
taking a cathedral at Koln, had printed bands on their little 
caps, showing the nascent military divisions in vv^hich they 
are enrolled. Present conditions holding, "Frankreich" 
will never successfully avenge '70- '7I. Woe be to that 
nation that locks horns and joins battle with the land army 
of four millions of the German Emperor! Everywhere the 
officers are in the cars and on the streets with flawless 
uniforms, tightly buttoned up with rows of shining gilt 
buttons and with a dauntless, preoccupied air of importance, 
the observed of all observers! From my contact with the 
people here, my opinion of their probity, honor, intelligence 
and industry is enhanced. I saw only one beggar as I came 
out of the "Elephant" "restauration" in Stuttgart. 

On the west bank we passed lovely *'Bingen on the 
Rhine", about which, when I was a boy, I recited a pensive 
piece of poetry. On the right the castle of Ehrenfels in 
ruins. I saw the round tower of Bishop Hatto, described in 
a book I own of "Mediaeval Myths". In a time of famine 
the avaricious bishop hoarded grain in this tower from the 
starving people, and met well-merited punishm.ent by being 
gnawed by legions of mice. The castles of Rheinstein, 
Falkenburg, Sarneck, Heimburg, all on the west side, have 
been restored and, from the draped windows, are apparently 
occupied. Gutenfels schloss, opposite Bacharach, is still in 
ruins. Lorleyfels, below on the right, with jutting crags 
and legends of enticing maidens, arrests the attention; then 
come in succession on the right and left, Maus, Sterrenberg 
and Liebenstein, castles still in ruins, the castles of 
Liebeneck and Stolzenfels, till we reach Coblenz — the 
"Confluentia" of the Romans — on a promontory formed by 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 63 

the inflowing Moselle river. Below the castle of Lahneck, 
on the right and opposite Coblentz, is the strong fortress of 
Ehrenbreitstein, a strategic eminence of great importance. 
Still further below are Krieges-schule, Kraberg, Hammer- 
stein, Rheineck, Argenfels. Below Rolandsneck, on-the left, 
the view widens out. We see on the right Grafenwerth, 
Nonnenwerth, the famous Drachenfels, of the legendary 
dragon, and the far distant range of the Siebengebirge. 

Night closed in, and the view was shut out by overspread- 
ing darkness. I became chilled and cold, and was glad, at 
10 p. m., to reach the shelter of a comfortable hotel at Koln, 
where, after a warm foot and knee bath, soon snugly 
ensconced between warm blankets, under feather beds, and 
fenced in by pillows, I slept till eight next morning, when I 
rose and, after a hearty German breakfast, explored the 
roofs and ascended the spires of the Gothic Cathedral of 
Cologne, of which later. 

COLN 

Written May 16th. 
The spires of Cologne Cathedral are so high that 1 was 
compelled to retreat to a distance in the adjacent streets to 
get the front facade and the side view in the fmder of my 
kodak. Bright- eyed German school boys, incipient soldiers 
of the emperor, with bands on their caps indicating the 
company and military division they belonged to in the 
academy, crowded around me, peering into the mysterious 
lens to find the image. A near-by cabby cuffed them and 
forced them back. After I took the main spire by standing 
on the pavement near by and pointing up almost perpen- 
dicularly, I called these intelligent little fellows to me, 
showed them their faces in the small lens, and satisfied 
their curiosity; meanwhile I smiled apologetically to friendly 
cocher. Mounting the highest tower by three spiral flights, 
I took two views of the far reaches of the Rhine, spanned 
by a fine railroad bridge, and from this pinnacle I look down 
upon the Church of St. Ursula, thirteen hundred years old, 
which I visited to see the famed relics of eleven thousand 
virgins massacred by Attila and his Huns, as alleged,— 
pagans destroying women in a convent because they were 



64 THE OLD WORLD 

Christians, thus making martyrs of them. 1 had gone 
across the street to No. 1 or 24, to fmd the sacristan, as 
directed. This intelligent gentleman came, unlocked many 
doors, and pointed out in the walls, in the ceiling, in urns, 
in brass modeled heads, in glass cases, all around the 
church, human bones that must have formed the skeletons 
of at least eleven thousand human beings. He could not 
satisfactorily explain to me why even the savage pagan 
Attila should wantonly destroy so many innocent virgins. 
He shook his head and simply said they were ''martyrs". 
My diagnosis of this collection of bones is that they are the 
accumulations of many years' burials of the saints in mon- 
asteries and convents of the time, both men and women, 
who had died natural deaths, and had been resurrected in 
the change of buildings, including, may be, one hundred 
whom the Huns had slain, as the skull wounds of some 
indicated. An ancient vase is shown here used by the 
Saviour, the sacristan said, in the miracle at Cana of turning 
water into wine. It certainly looked old enough. 

Descending the cathedral towers, I again passed into the 
interior to take a last look at the richly stained windows. 
The spires are the tallest in the world, and more than five 
millions have been spent in restorations. 

Every corner has the ''finest cologne". Of course I 
bought a bottle. 

I saw near the Church of St. Ursula the house in which 
the haughty and imperious Mary De Medici died in retreat 
after her lifelong duel with the crafty Cardinal Richelieu, in 
which she came out a loser. 

WATERLOO 

Written May 17th at Belle Alliance. 
To-day,. May 17th, eighty-seven years after, I stand 
upon the battlefield known as "Waterloo" (waterless) by 
the English world, "La Belle Alliance" by the drench and 
"Braine TAlleud" by the German, because their dispatches 
were dated from these respective points. I have already 
visited the farm house La Haye Sainte, standing between 
the contesting armies, going even into the immense heavy- 
raftered attic, where the grandfather, as he said, of the 



I 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 65 

present occupant— who wrote his name, ''Charles Du- 
wasse", in my book — took his pigs, his chickens and his 
family for safety, and remained there the whole of June the 
18th, during the fierce canonading, unharmed — at least so 
the historians say. Also I visited the chateau of "Hougo- 
mont" or **De Goumon". In the car from Brussels to 
Braine I'Alleud, Amelia Wicausse, born and living at Braine 
TAlleud, was a veritable and enthusiastic encyclopaedia of 
facts about the battle, and emphatically claimed that the 
Lion on the Mound was a "Belgic" lion — the lion looks 
toward France, its paw raised; that the mound was erected 
seven years after by the Prince of Orange, peasant women 
carrying the dirt in baskets from the hill through which ran 
the sunken road of Ohain, which, according to Victor Hugo, 
''ditched" the French cavalry in their charge, the momen- 
tum crushing themselves instead of the intended allies. 
The sides of this road are now leveled. Years after, when 
Wellington visited the spot, he exclaimed, "They have 
changed my battlefield!" I had a fme lunch of sweet 
milk, sweet bread and sweet butter, by a bright fire — a 
rarity in Europe — in this cabaret of Belle Alliance, and 
looked out of the windows on this "Mound of the Lion", 
and now the peaceful green fields of spring wheat, the inn 
kept by the widow of Julien Person, who claims she is the 
granddaughter of the ov/ner and habitant of this house in 
1815. Pierre Joseph Nicasse, Guide Official No. 3, who 
also claims he is a descendant of the family Person living 
here in 1815, wound up an enormous music box, as big as a 
piano, during my repast, causing it to play in succession 
"God Save the King", "Wacht am Rhein" and the soul- 
stirring "Marseilles Hymn", he dancing meanwhile and his 
eyes glistening with delight. Indeed, he detailed all the 
movements of the armies forme, showed me the holes made 
by the musket and cannon balls in the various houses, and 
at Hougomont pointed out in the chapel where a French 
soldier had, with his bayonet, splintered off the nose of the 
wooden Virgin, carved by Van Rysewick of Antwerp, also 
the leg of the wooden Christ, now repaired by plaster, 
hanging over the door, protected by a heavy wire screen ; 
and showed the deep well in the yard into which three 
hundred dead soldiers of four nations had been thrown for 



66 THE OLD WORLD 

burial— leveled now with dirt to the top. He took the skull 
and jawbone of a French grenadier from the mantel in the 
Belle Alliance cabaret, fitted them together, poked his fmger 
in the hole made by a bullet, and juggled them up familiarly 
like the grave-digger in the play when he shows the skull 
of "Yorick" in Hamlet. Also, he took the skull of a horse — 
a relic of the battle — under his arm. Alas, poor horse! who 
is compelled to take part, unwillingly, in all the fierce 
contests of contentious mankind! Some of Marshal Ney's 
horses were found after the battle with English bayonets 
thrust clear through their bodies— this when their French 
riders charged upon the immovable English, Scotch and 
Irish crouching squares. Amelia Wicausse, Jean Joseph 
Nicasse, the widow of Julien Person of Belle Alliance, 
Charles Duwasse of La Haye Sainte, and the occupant of 
Hougomont, fairly quivered with excitement as they referred 
to the different incidents in the memorable fight: to Well- 
ington's **Up, guards, and at 'em", to Napoleon's "Tout 
perdu", *'Sauve que peut". The air of this Arcadian 
scene still vibrates with the echoes of the shock of one 
hundred and twenty thousand embattled soldiers ''whose 
good swords are rust, whose bones are dust, and whose 
souls are with the saints, 1 trust". Victor Hugo came here 
and spent a season, reading all the ''French" accounts of 
the conflict, from Jomini's down, which he properly placed 
in the Les Miserables, a book of fiction. He says of the 
French cavalry, "They were gigantic men on colossal 
horses", a Homeric line truly, good poetry, but not verified 
by the facts. The French skulls of men and horses I saw 
were below the average size. He refers to the rain -soaked 
field, a false peasant guide who said "there was no sunken 
road atOhain"; the failure of Grouchy to "come up"; the 
fact that Blucher with his thirty thousand Prussians did 
come up in time; the waste of time in taking and retaking 
Hougomont; the mistake of the French in thinking the red 
brick walls were English infantry instead of the walls of 
the Chateau of Hougomont. I remember well in 1862, 
when his famous book was widely read, the London Times 
significantly asked him, Hugo, to explain Poictiers, Cressy, 
Agincourt — all won by Englishmen on French soil over 
Frenchmen. The truth is, brave as were the French at 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 67 

Waterloo, English, Irish and Scotch bone, brawn and brain 
outclassed them. Napoleon's plans were perfect; his artil- 
lery, cavalry and infantry outnumbered the English, Irish, 
Scotch, Belgians and Prussians; he fought the battle well; 
was confident of victory and rubbed his hands with glee 
when he saw the enemy come to a * 'stand". Yet he 
himself said of the Scotch cavalry, "How those white 
horsemen do ride!" Later, when his own cavalry got 
beyond the immovable allied squares, that ''they are all 
mixed up". Think, rather, of the antecedents of this last 
fight of the Corsican. He landed at Frejus empty-handed, 
an escaped prisoner from Elba, under a ban, without a sou, 
without a soldier, without a friend, without a base, without 
a government, with the whole of allied and royal Europe 
against him. He went to Paris, won over Ney, who, on the 
way had threatened to bring him back in an iron cage (that 
splendid marshal so basely murdered afterwards by the 
restored Bourbons). He, Napoleon, organized the civil, 
political, financial, diplomatic and m.ilitary departments of 
France; marched rapidly with an army hastily gotten to- 
gether of many youthful recruits, undrilled and unskilled, 
and fought a pitched battle with veteran commanders and 
seasoned soldiers on their own soil beyond his frontier, 
all in one hundred days, the echoes of which still resound 
throughout the civilized world! and which, though ending 
in a way that has made ''Waterloo" synonymous with 
irretrievable defeat, yet to my mind does not tarnish the 
lustre of Toulon, Lodi, Montenotte, The Pyramids, Mar- 
engo, Austerlitz, Wagram, Jena, Auerstadt or Friedland. 

Mirabeau, in 1789, started the ball to rolling in the first 
convention. After him the dauntless Danton took up the 
cause of liberty, equality and fraternity. When he was 
guillotined, his successor on horseback, Napoleon, marched 
into every capital in Europe, overthrowing despotisms hoary 
with age; and his work remains to-day to benefit mankind, 
spite of Waterloo. 

BRUSSELS— ANTWERP—MALINES 

Hotel Terminus, Brussels, May 18th. 
May 15th, at 7:55 a. m., I left Coin and arrived at 



68 THE OLD WORLD 

Brussels at 3 p. m., after a ride through a highly cultivated 
and picturesque country. 

Brussels Cathedral is a magnificent pile, nearly one 
thousand years old, time-stained and dingy, with rich glass 
windows; this, the Palais de Justice and the Hotel de Ville 
loom up before the gaze of the beholder at a distance from 
the city above the level line of houses into great promi- 
nence. At night I heard excellent singing and instrumental 
music in the Palais D'Ete, and another night in Victoria 
Hall. From Brussels forty-five minutes ride took me to 
Braine I'AlIeud, from which 1 visited the field of Waterloo. 
In the chapel at Hougomont and enclosure will be held, this 
June 18th, a historical commemorative service by an 
English society. I returned to Brussels and went north to 
Antwerp, passing Malines and its eight-hundred -year-old 
cathedral, with its high tower still unfinished. The ety- 
mology of Ant-werp (hand -thrown) has many singular and 
incredible explanations. The city has a quarter of a million 
people, fine stone quays, many canals, is the seaport of 
Belgium, is now enjoying a commerce similar to that piled 
up on the wharves of the Quai Schiavoni at Venice during 
the five hundred years terminating in the voyage of Colum- 
bus, and is the northern Venice. I scooped up in my hand, 
while swimming in a gondola, and tasted the salt water of 
the Lagoon and the Grand Canal at Venice. At the end of 
my route northwardly I dipped the soles of my shoes in the 
brine of the German Ocean at thrifty Antwerp. French, 
German and Dutch are spoken here. The streets near the 
cathedral (Gothic) are so narrow I could not get the tall 
spire to fit in the finder of my kodak. The masterpiece of 
Rubens, the Descent from the Cross, hangs in the transept. 
The stained glass of the lofty windows rejoices the eye. 
The wood carvings of the pulpit and partitions stand in bold 
relief of human figures. Outside, near the front, an old 
well with artistic wrought iron canopy is worthy of admi- 
ration. I noticed on'the shops and restaurants many quiant 
names of the Vans: Van Der Eycken, Van der Vetter, 
Van Rysewyk, Van D'Eyck, Van Dyck, Van der Arbeid and 
F. Van Rysvelt, whom I met, with the large white teeth 
and the smile of our ^'Theodore,** whom he claimed for a 
cousin. 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 69 



SYRIA, EGYPT AND CONTINENTAL EUROPE 

Hotel du Nil, Paris, May 22d. 
In the scheme of the world's highest civilization, Haifa, 
Tyre and Sidon stand for ancient commerce, and as the 
landing places of the Crusaders; Arabia, for the invention 
of numerals, algebra and letters; Cairo for the pyramids, 
the Sphynx, the Tombs of the Sacred Bulls, its buried city 
of Memphis; Jerusalem, the seat of the ancient Jewish 
hierarchy and the scenes in the life of Jesus, the great 
Examplar; Alexandria for its Pharos and Library; Byzan- 
tium for the seat of the Western Em.pire and, as ''Constan- 
tinople", for the Moslem regime, mosques and minarets; 
Athens for all the plastic arts, drama and poetry; the 
Eastern Mediterranean, the .^gean Sea, the Bosphorus, the 
Sea of Azov and the Adriatic, as the highway of ancient 
and mediaeval commerce; Imperial Rome for military, civil 
government and law; Venice for the invention of banks, 
commercial paper and medieval commerce; Mediaeval and 
Modern Rome for religion — Christianity, in its four hundred 
and fifty churches of classic architecture and domes; Naples 
for its buried and resurrected city, Pompeii, its Vesuvius, 
its museum and aquarium ; Florence for its Patti and Ufizzi 
palaces and galleries: Milan, [Strasbourg, Cologne, Brussels, 
Malines, Antwerp and Medieval Paris for their matchless 
Gothic cathedrals; Heidelberg, Stuttgart and Bonn for their 
universities of learning; Modern Paris for painting, archi- 
tecture, the beaux arts, gayety and romance. Such are the 
Orient and Continental Europe ''as I have seen them". 

PARIS 

May 25th. 
Sunday, May 18th, I left Brussels at 8:58 a. m., and 
arrived in Paris at 6 p. m., entertained en route by the 
conversation of F. Summerfield Tew, a young English mer- 
chant of "Confections" (fine clothing) for dames and 
enfants. Jules Muller, of Liege, of a German father and 
French mother, a cotton manufacturer, gave me his card. 
He said he naturally loved both Allemain and Frenchmen, 



70 THE OLD WORLD 

and tried all he could to smooth over old animosities. At 
Copenhagen a typical pair **Armand" and "Camille", as 
it were, stepped out of Alexander Dumas' wonderful love 
story and seated themselves in the second-class compart- 
ment directly opposite me. She filled a small space with 
Pinaud's delicate carnation perfume, stood up twisting her 
fragile figure spirally to shuffle off an embroidered opera 
robe, which she reached up to place on the wire rack above, 
presently taking it down again and coquettishly untwisting 
her lythe form in the opposite direction, showing off, as 
Sapho did to Jean, all the perfections of her charms. Then 
she looked languishingly upon "Armand", who promptly 
leaned his curly head upon her fine shoulder. In a change- 
ful mood she tapped him on the ear and murmured something 
softly in Parisian French. These loving dramatics were 
kept up to and for my edification as we flew for miles past 
quaint French villages, 1 looking out the window, but such 
is the range of the periscopic human eye that they came in 
to the retina as side rays. Being very tired, my eyes kept 
constantly closing until the train pulled into Gare de Lion, 
with me crumpled up in the corner of the uncomfortable 
coach so fast asleep that *'Armand" was compelled to shake 
me awake, much to the disgust of ''Camille", all of whose 
coquettries had thus been lost upon me. In a very few 
minutes I was snugly ensconced in a soft warm bed in the 
1st Etage of the Hotel du Nil, No. 10 rue Helder, one block 
from Place de L'Opera, recommended by W. J. Gilliam, of 
Craydon, England, where I slept till eight next morning, 
rivaling the sweet unconsciousness of the Seven Sleepers of 
Ephesus. 

After ''eggs, pain and cafe complete" I sallied out to the 
Tourists' office and proceeded to mount omnibusses and 
take in the city, to me apparently indigestible — the habita- 
tion of nearly three millions of people, and two thousand 
years in growing from the Cite of the Isle of Paris to a 
circumference of thirty miles — as Von Moltke discovered 
when he invested it with his German Legions in 1870-71. 

I went first to the Madeleine; then by 'bus to the Place 
of the Bastile. It was a mistake to tear this down; it could 
have been dismantled of its guns. The English kept their 
Tower of London, built in the same age, and now ranking 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 71 

with Westminster and St. Paul's as a drawing attraction 
for tourists. I passed thence through the Place of Con- 
corde, over the Seine, to the Eiffel Tower; thence to the 
Triumphal Arch, to Pere Lachaise; thence down to the pier 
by the Bridge of Alexander — taking a small swift steamer 
and going up and down under all the bridges: the Ponts 
Berri, Austerlitz, Sully, Tournelle, Neuf, Des Arts, Car- 
rousal. Royal, Solferino, La Concorde, Des Invalides, de 
L'AIma, Passy, Gunnelle, and, finally coming ashore, by 
'bus to the Place L'Opera, and so home. The bridges are 
all graceful, strong, ornamental, historical and many marked 
with a large *'N" blown in the bottle, so to speak, so "coal 
oil" communists could not erase. This method 1 repeated 
with compass in hand, an occasional glance at a pocket map 
and a little gratuity to the garrulous cocher, so that I finally 
got my bearings and could find any desired place at night, 
even Follies Bergere, Olympia, Marigny, or any theater or 
public place. 1 afterwards made three set tours under a 
guide and accomplished much intelligent sight-seeing in a 
short time. Thus, on a Monda}^ I went to the Madeleine 
Church: fine interior, style of the Parthenon at Athens; a 
long vista through the Rue Royal shows the facade of the 
French Chamber of Deputies. The French topographers, 
engineers and architects, Baron Hausman, Louis Phillipe 
and Third Napoleon were past masters in the art of arrang- 
ing magnificent distances with a column, a church, a monu- 
ment or some historical memorial at either end. 

From Place L'Opera, the center of the North City, 
through Rue De La Paix, the lofty column made of captured 
Prussian cannon, the togaed figure of Napoleon can be seen. 
The old statue, with the military overcoat, is now in the 
north front of the Hotel Des Invalides, where I saw it to-day. 

From the Palais du Louvre you can look northwest 
through the Jardin 'Des Tuilleries, through the*! Place of 
Concorde, past the Egyptian, through the Champs Elysees, 
the Rond Point, the Avenue, under the noble Arc De 
Triumphe, through the Avenue La Grande Armee into the 
Pont de Nuilly. This vista is the grandest. Now a German 
engineer laid out unbuilt Washington City, ''through swamp 
and marshes", as Tom Moore, the poet, said in contempt — 
whereby he lost the glory of a bust in the rotunda of the 



72 THE OLD WORLD 

American capitol— and our great and beautiful geometrical - 
avenued city was afterwards built up to it. That the French 
builders could take old Paris' eighteen hundred years of 
crooked and twisted lanes and make such an ideal city of it 
is indeed marvelous, hi the early days of 1793 and 1799 
the revolutionists had written in inerasable letters four times 
on the front of noble Notre Dame, ''Fraternity, Egalite, 
Liberte", and many times on public buildings of old Paris. 
All those buildings they did not destroy they placed upon, 
this, their trade -mark. Two other words are stamped upon 
the French heart and show their character: "Grand" and 
"Gloire". in the grand series of paintings in the Palace of 
Versailles, from the battle of Tours, fought by Charles 
Martel, through Francis I, Henry IV, Louis XIV and Napo- 
leon, occurs one, ''Yor[c]ktown", where Rochambeau isthe 
central front figure, dictating terms to Lord Cornwallis, our 
W^ashington, with shaded face and downcast eyes, standing 
meekly in the background. How is that for history! 

Another fine vista is from the Luxembourg to the Observ- 
atory; another from St. Germaine to Gare de L'Ouest; 
another from Place de Fontenoy, past the Eiffel Tower, to 
the Trocadero, built under the presidency of McMahon, to 
commemorate a Spanish victory, and another from the Place 
de La Republique to the fine Church of St. Eustache. 

Rome, built under the C^sars, had the North Port for 
a radiating point. From this you could look along through 
many avenues, even to the Forum. Under the Church and 
the Pope, the intention was to make San Pietro, beyond the 
Tiber, the center. Florence has its Duomo for a city center; 
Venice, San Marco; Milan, the Cathedral; Strasbourg, its 
Cathedral; so Coin, Antwerp and Malines; finally, Paris, 
true to its art- nature, has Place L'Opera for a center. At 
the Place Arc de Triomphe the guide pointed out to me 
many avenues radiating from this point named after Napo- 
leon's marshals and distinguished men and places: Grande 
Armee, Victor Hugo, Kleber, D'Jenna, Marceau, Friedland, 
Hoche Wagram, McMahon. I visited in turn, through these 
broad avenues. Palace of Elysee, Grande and Petit Palais, 
Champs Elysees, Palace of Trocadero, the Eiffel Tower, 
Ecole Invalides and Tomb of Napoleon;— Louis, Lucien and 
Jerome Bonaparte are also entombed here. A golden light^ 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 73 

diffused over the colossal image of "The Christ", is an artis- 
tic accessory. Vauhan and Turenne, great engineers under 
Louis XIV, have honored niches; names of battles and 
captured flags surround the magnificent sarcophagus in the 
center — a present from Emperor Alexander. 

Napoleon First died in exile, Napoleon II poisoned in 
Vienna, Napoleon Hi an exile and dethroned at Chiselhurst, 
the Prince Imperial assagaied in South Africa; — such are 
the mighty elevations and stupendous reverses of this 
worderful race of men. 

Later, 1 passed the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Palace 
Bourbon, Chamber Des Deputes, Pont de La Concorde, 
Palace of Legion of Honour and Palais Royal, stopping for 
luncheon at Hotel Vidal ; then to the Church St. Eustache, 
with its lovely interior, in Montemartre; the Halles Cen- 
trales, Boulevard St. Michel, Les Thermes, Roman ruins, 
where incorrigible gamins prevented our entrance, Musee 
de Cluny, Sorbonne, College de France, Arenes de Lutece, 
Place de La Bastile, Column of July, Pere Lachaise, Place 
de La Republique, Grand Boulevarde, Porte St. Martin (old 
Porte St. Dennis) and to Hotel du Nil — home — for that day. 

If the French would pronounce their wonderful language 
as they spell it, or spell it as pronounced; phonetically, it 
would be much easier to master. As it was, I made a few 
words, some signs, a lead pencil and blank paper do good 
service. Even a hundred nouns and verbs help. They 
fondly think Paris is the only ''cite" and the **Parlez vous" 
the only lingua, and speak it rapturously, with pride and 
delight. They call it the language of Love, of Art, of 
Science, of Glory, and the best in the world. 

Tuesday I saw St. Augustine, Pare Monceau, Arc de 
Triomphe, Bois de Boulogne, the Lakes, Grande Cascade, 
race course of Lons Champ, view of the Citadel of Mont 
Valerien, town and park of St. Cloud, Montretout, Forest 
of Ville D'Avray, Avenue de Picardie, Boulevarde de La 
Peine, Grande Trianon, private apartments of Empress 
Josephine, Napoleon I, and State carriages, a curious collec- 
tion of heavy gilded coaches. 

After luncheon we visited the Palace, Park and Galleries 
of Versailles. I stood upon the balcony where Marie An- 
toinette, with the dauphin, showed herself to the hungry 



74 THE OLD WORLD 

and angry mob. I stood upon the spot in the front salon, 
before the Statue of France, where the German king in 
1870-71 had his station, looking out of the tall windows 
down the avenue and Lake of the Mirrors, to receive from 
all the German Princes and Kingdoms the Imperial Crown. 
Jena and Auerstadt, 1807-9; Sedan, 1870; a short sixty 
years. How the Wheel of Military Fortune has revolved! 
France below ; Germany in the Nadir. The irony of revenge 
and fate! 

Later I went through Avenue de Paris, Viroflay, Chaville, 
Sevres and its porcelain manufactory, Billancourt, fortifica- 
tions of Paris, viaduct of Auteuil, Palace of the Trocadero, 
Seine Embankment, Cours La Peine, Place de La Concorde, 
and again to Hotel Nil, to be refreshed and sleep after so 
much sight-seeing. 

Wednesday at ten I started out and saw the Column 
Vendome, Rue de Rivoli, Garden of the Tuilleries, Institute 
of France, Mint, Pont Neuf, statue of Henry IV (he was 
their best king) ; Sainte Chapelle, Palace of injustice, Con- 
ciergerie — made historic by imprisonment of Marie Antoin- 
ette, Palace and Museum of the Louvre, with its twenty-six 
miles of paintings and its famous Venus de Milo, a torso of 
ineffable grace. After luncheon, I saw Place du Carrousal 
and Triumphal Arch, Ecole des Beaux Arts, St. Sulpice, 
Boulevard St. Michel, Fontaine de L'Observatorie, statue 
of the ill-fated Marshal Ney, carpet manufactory of the 
Gobelins, Pantheon, dedicated to '*Aux grande hommes, la 
patrie reconnaisante" — once erased, then rewritten (now 
remaining), St. Etienne du Mont, Galleries of the Luxem- 
bourg. Italians are the best sculptors, French the best 
painters. 1 saw the cathedral of Notre Dame, the chancel, 
heavily draped for an annual function in commemoration of 
the dead of 1870-71; Hotel Dieu, Hotel de Ville, Tour St. 
Jaques, Place du Chatelet and Avenue L'Opera, and so at 
last home to rest. 

Saturda^^ I made up a party of four and, for a total of 
twenty-eight francs, travelled forty miles to visit Fontain- 
bleau Palais and Forest and return. 

I mounted the tower of the Trocadero next day to take 
a final view of beautiful Paris and to verify all. Thus had 
I partly viewed this mighty center of art and wealth. 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 75 

ORIENTAL AND EUROPEAN ROYALTY AND 
PAGEANTRY 

In Eypt, in Cairo, along the main street, in front of the 
Grand Continental Hotel, on a bright sunny day in Feb- 
ruary, I saw the Khedive in an open carriage — a sombre, 
dark, brown -looking young man, with fez cap — driven 
rapidly along, accompanied by mounted guards, a mere 
automaton — Cromer being the de facto ruler. 

• In Beirijt I saw the Governor, heavy set, dark-skinned, 
with a pensive dignity, pass from the citadel accompanied 
by a guard of honor. 

In Jerusalem, down David into Christian street, passed 
on foot the splendid French consul, dressed in gold lace, 
attended by six uniformed guarcs carrying white wands 
tipped with gold, quite theatrical. The most dignified man 
was the Greek Bishop, with a head and front like Jove 
himself, clad in heavy canonical robes of elaborate brocaded 
silk, en train, carried by uniformed pages, marching to the 
strains of sacred music, around and around the Holy Sepul- 
cher, certainly the most imposing spectacle 1 ever witnessed 
in or out of a theater. The soldiers of the Sultan, full 
armed, kept back the throng. Quite in contrast was the 
sweet-faced English Bishop Blythe, dressed in sober clerical 
black, into whose splendid palace I went by invitation and 
was hospitably entertained by his wife. 

Past the hermetically sealed palace of the Sultan of Pera, 
on the banks of the Bosphorus, I twice steamed. Fearful 
of assassination, he is rarely seen. Only the subjects of 
such a man would strip off the stamps from sealed letters 
and wreck the letters. He has no place in Christian Europe. 
Not that they love King George so well are the Greeks so 
contented to have him for a ruler, but that they detest the 
Turc, whose habit it was to decapitate all marble statues, 
no matter what their antiquity. 

On the Greek Fourth of July, April 7th, from my hotel 
in Athens, De Angelterre, I took a kodak of King George, 
aged fifty, as he passed in an open carriage between dense 
but silent throngs. The singing of patriotic songs by pro- 
cessions of uniformed boys took me back, in imagination, 



76 THE OLD WORLD 

to the days of Salamis and Thermopylae, when the enthu- 
siastic and embattled men of the age of Pericles marched 
around the gilded image of Minerva on the Acropolis, 
shouting "Evoe! Evoe!" and victorious war songs— a most 
inspiring and heart-throbbing spectacle. 

As I saw Pope Leo XIII carried in triumph on the shoul- 
ders of eight Papal Guards along the nave of San Pietro on 
Thursday, April 24th, amid the "Viva Papas" of ten thou- 
sand enthusiastic followers, I could easily picture a similar 
scene, in Imperial Rome, when Constantine Hadrian or 
Marcus Aurelins Antoninus passed in triumph from the 
North Gate, Porta Del Popolo, along the corso below Qui- 
rinal to the Forum and Monte Palatino! 

My hotel, the Metropole was in the Via St. Nicolo de 
Tolentino, between the Quirinal and Monte Pincio, within 
two blocks of the splendid palace, frequently passed by me, 
where Queen Margharita, widow of Humbert, lives in a 
state befitting her station. The palace of her son Emanuel, 
the present king, often seen by me, is near by to the south, 
in the Viminal. 

The doges of Venice are a thing of the past, v/ith their 
pageants and processions. Inscribed in large letters, copied 
by me on May 7th, on the hallway leading to the Giant's 
Staircase in the Ducal Palace, are these words and figures: 
''Vote of Province of Veneziafor Union with Italy underthe 
Constitutional Monarchy of Victor Emanuele II, 27 Oct., 
1866, Yes: 64,178; No: 69; Null: 275", indicating not so 
much proud Venice's love for Italy as her intense scorn of 
Austrian domination. 1 had a taste of Venetian pageantry 
in the decorations of the church and San Marco Piazza for 
Ascension Day when 1 was there May 8th. 

From Mayence I passed near Wiesbaden, where was 
then the War Lord, Emperor William, May 14th. 

I saw in the Church of Notre Dame at Paris the decora- 
tions, costly black and funereal hangings for the annual cel- 
ebration of the funeral obsequies of the French dead fallen 
in the frightful war of 1870-71. President Loubet was 
present. 

On Thursday, May 27th, Edward VII, King of England, 
was present, mounted, accompanied by Earl Roberts, at the 
annual ceremony of trooping the British colors in Green 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 71 

Park, London. He was sixty-one, heavy set, with close- 
cropped gray beard; is broad-minded, cosmopolitan and 
popular. So is his queen, whom I saw driving in Rotten 
Row last Saturday. 

Last night I returned to the city to London Bridge, from a 
trip down the Thames to the sea, and rode on an omnibus 
top through Fleet street, the Strand, Piccadilly, Knight's 
Bridge, Brompton, Fulham Road, to m}/ residence at Knees- 
v/orth House, Elm Park Road, South Kensington. The 
scenes of ''Mafeking night" were being repeated. A 
rocket from Alexandra Palace and the announcement of the 
Lord Mayor from Mansion House proclaimed peace and the 
ending of the Boer war— October 11, 1898-May 31, 1902— 
giving at last rest for the poor soldiers. The Daily Tele- 
graph to-day and other London papers are full of it. Great 
was the rejoicing. The vista of the street, as I look out of 
my window to-day is alive with waving Union Jacks, among 
which 1 see American flags. The preparations for the 
Coronation, May 26th, are immense. All London has been 
cleansed and brightened. The weather is fine, the foliage 
— ''leaf}^ June" — is redundant. Never on this earth has 
there been such a concourse as will be here June 26, 1902. 
One million of visitors are expected. Seats are at fabulous 
prices and hotels crowded. The demonstrations on the 
streets to-day are immense. The 'busses can hardly get 
through the crowds. 

THE CAUSES OF THE SELECTION OF SITES 
FOR ANCIENT CITIES 

LONDON, June 3d. 
Nature predestined that point in the Nile Valley where 
twenty streams diverge across the flats and shallows of 
sands — that ages of inundations have piled up — the apex 
of the Delta, to be the center of a great population. It is 
almost equidistant from Suez, from Ismailia, from Port Said 
and from Alexandria. Each line constitutes a radius of 
about one hundred and thirty miles, with first Memphis, 
now a ruin and buried under two thousand inundations of 
the Nile, and at present Cairo, as the hub of the spokes — 
extending, spread out like the vanes of a fan, making it a 



7% THE OLD WORLD 

point of strategic and commercial importance. Thotmes 
and Rameses, B. C, and now the Khedive and Cromer 
have their residence and mihtary encampment here. 

The flat tops of Mt. Moriah and four other hills, forming 
a square surface capable — within a wall sixty- six feet high 
and one hour and twenty minutes' walk in circuit, of hold- 
ing a population of two hundred thousand, a family living 
in a single room — made a great camp of Jerusalem and 
fixed its destiny as a natural fortress; this, supplemented 
by the fact that it is equidistant from the seacoast and the 
Valley of the Jordan — between the mountains of Lebanon 
on the north and the Arabian Desert on the south. A spring 
at the foot of Mt. Olive first drew the Jebusites there, who 
fixed their encampment permanently, as they supposed, till 
driven away by the invading Hebrews. That spring is still 
there. I drank of its pure, sweet waters, March 13th. A 
church to the Virgin is erected over it. The pool of Siloam, 
the Brook of Cedron on the south, the deep vale at the foot 
of Olivet on the east, make this ancient city almost im- 
pregnable from that side. At night the high steep walls 
are desolate and gloomy. In my belated walk around the 
outer walls on the night of March 15th, I disturbed certain 
buzzards of large size — carrion birds which, coming in from 
mountains toward Jericho, made the high niches of the old 
walls their roosting place. Indignant at my intrusion into 
their solemn haunts, they flew with heavy-flapping wings 
shrieking away towards Bethany and Bethpage. The 
experience was eyrie and weird. 

It is easy to see that Stamboul, Pera and Scutari, consti- 
tuting Constantinople, on the deep and sv/ift waters that 
flow from the Back Sea into the Sea of Marmora, make it a 
point of prime strategic importance and the coveted prize of 
contending Assyrians, Greeks, Romans, Venetians, Turks 
and Russians through all the ages before and since the 
Advent. 

The Acropolis, at Athens, with its precipitous sides, 
except toward the west, attracted the early Pelasgians to 
it as a place of refuge from their on-coming enemies. All 
around the parapet, great blocks of brown, unhewn rocks, I 
could easily distinguish from the later masonry of the time 
of Pericles. 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 79 

' Brundisium, with its land-locked harbor and high shore 
elevations, caused it to be selected by the races of men 
preceding the Romans as a city. 

The heights of St. Elmo and St. Martin, the wide and 
deep bay, always attracted self-defending men to iNaples. 

The Palatine, resembling the Acropolis of Athens, and its 
six other hills dominating the Campagna, decided the 
Etruscans to build and fortify Rome. 

The bend in the Arno and the heights of Michaelangelo 
were the natural deferfses of Florence. 

The detached islands at the mouth of the Po made the 
farmers fleeing from the invading Huns a refuge and built 
Venice. 

Milan — medio-lanus — was the center of a rich agricultural 
and pastoral plain, a natural county seat. 

Fliielen is at one end and Lucerne at the other of a lake 
twenty-five miles long, the outgoing waters of the Reuss, 
making it a strategic point for the colonizing Romans, who 
built a town and hung a light here — Lucerne. 

The advantages of Stuttgart, its fine situation on the 
Neckar, mad^^ it the natural capital of Wurtemburg. 

Mayence, at the junction of Marne and the Rhine, made 
it a point of prime military importance. 

The Emperor Claudius thought enough of Cologne- - 
Colonia — to send a legion of veteran soldiers there, and 
commenced the city. 

Brussels, on the Scheldt, early had a range of fortified 
hills. 

The isolated island of the Seine — in time B. C. — drew a 
tribe of fleeing Parish, who defended themselves for ages 
from their inaccessible fortress, and from this the great city 
grew. This island is still called ''The Cite". 

Rouen was selected by the invading Northmen as a good 
place to defend, and a visit to its steep hills shows why. 

London is flat and level. The seat on the Thames and 
proximity to the sea fixed its location as a point of commer- 
cial importance. 

Thus we see that strategic considerations have been a 
prime factor in locating Oriental and European cities. 



80 THE OLD WORLD 

FROM PARIS, THROUGH ROUEN, DIEPPE, NEW 
HAVEN, TO LONDON 

LONDON, June 10th. 

Leaving Paris, May 25th, at 8:07 a. m., by the Gare De 
L'Ouest, I arrived at Rouen at 12 same day; renriaining there 
long enough to visit the Cathedral, nine hundred years old. 
The central tower, nearly five hundr^ feet high, destroyed 
by lightning eighty years ago, has been rebuilt of structural 
steel, the only one of the kind in Europe. To lovers of old 
stone Gothic cathedrals its ironrust color is detestable, 
although the tracery of its framework against the sky is 
delicate. The stained glass windows inside, and especially 
the rose window in the nave, 1 admired. Rolloof Normandy 
is buried here, and here is an effigy of Richard 1 of England, 
containing his lion heart. 

The Church of St. Ouen, nine hundred years old, is fully 
as large as the cathedral and, to my mind, grander. The 
stained glass of the many windows is fme. 1 took kodaks 
of both. 

An equestrian statue of Napoleon, made of the cannon of 
Austerlitz, adorns the square of the Hotel de Ville. In the 
Museum of Antiquities is. the autograph of William the 
Conqueror, made with a mark, like that of Charlemange, 
both of whom were too busy fighting to learn to write, and 
kept secretaries for that purpose. This city is the capital 
of Normandy, is the scene of the martyrdom of Joan of Arc, 
in the public square. The modern tramways are in glaring 
contrast to the ancient dormer-windowed, tile-roofed build- 
ings. 

Leaving betimes, I reached Dieppe at midnight. Taking 
the channel ferry, I lay me down to sleep, and was uncon- 
scious of the waves till I awoke at daylight at New Haven. 
The swift steamers transferred m^e to London by 8 o'clock, 
when I was soon comfortably domiciled in a private house 
in Elm Park Road, South Kensington. 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 81 

INCIDENTS AND REMINISCENCES OF THE TOUR 

LONDON, June. 

In Jerusalem I saw the gate out of which Stephen went 
to be stoned to death. Paul says he held the garments of 
the Pharisees the while. There were and are certainly 
plenty of stones. 

I went to the "Wailing Wall of the Jews", it is part of 
the Temple of Solomon. Many Hebrews were there, both 
men and women, leaning up against the ponderous time- 
stained stones, bewailing the lost glories of Solomon, tears 
streaming from their eyes and voices quivering with emotion. 
It was pathetic. Beggars old and young (Moslem) swarmed 
around the place. David street in Jerusalem is by measure- 
ment twenty-three feet v/ide. It is the main street. No 
horse or wagons within the walls. David street is crooked 
and twisted. On each side are bazaars. The merchants 
sit in their front doors. The shops are arched over with 
thick stone walls to exclude the burning sun. The mer- 
chants are all Jews, sharp-eyed, clad in gaberdines, speak- 
ing Hebrew and Syriac, a little French, no English. When 
I witnessed the procession of the Greek priests on Sunday 
in the Holy Sepulcher, a white -winged dove alighted upon 
the glass dome one hundred feet above — a beautiful incident. 

Great processions of pilgrim.s from all over Europe were 
marching through the nave of St. Pietro in Rome when I 
first entered. They were singing ecstatically. It was 
dramatic; it was impressive. St. Peter, St. Pietro in 
Vinculo, St. Maria Maggiore, St. Croce, St. Lorenzo, St. 
Sebastian and St. Paul without the walls — these are the 
seven pilgrimage churches in Rome. Believers who pray in 
them are entitled to special regard and indulgence. I visited 
and entered each one. The Pope in Rome is universally 
beloved. I saw him closely, repeatedly. He is old, with- 
ered, shrunken, with a skin like parchment, deepseteyes, a 
large ring on his middle fmger of right hand. He blessed 
with liis right hand, two fingers extended. When he arose 
from the chair on which he was carried the immense audi- 
ence burst out into frantic enthusiastic vivas, "Viva Papa!*' 
It was contagious. His face was powdered and painted like 
a woman's. He wore a close-fitting skull cap and scarlet 



82 THE OLD WORLD 

robe. 1 made the acquaintance of several noblemen in 
Ital}^; they did not impress me as different from other men. 

Venetians drink coffee every twenty minutes. The mass 
of the people are pinched with hunger and cold, hi the 
trattorias the lynx-eyed waiters watch every motion of the 
guest and every mouthful he eats. The city is a shell of 
old palaces out of which the nautilus crawled one hundred 
years ago. The wharves of Schiavoni are empty of mer- 
chandise. 

Stuttgart was full of the emperor's lusty, well-fed, mad- 
to-fight soldiers and many ''Denkmals" of the frightful war 
of '70-'7L It hurts the defeated French that all the lions 
and statues point threateningly toward *'Frankreich". 
They burn and fret under their crushing defeat — Waterloo 
multiplied a thousand times. 

The Hotel du Nil, in Paris, was my resting place, where I 
slept off the weariness of travel and sight-seeing. 

1 attended the annual races at Epsom Downs, where 1 
saw the king in the grand stand, pencil in hand, figuring 
out combinations on the horses. Two hundred thousand 
people were present. 

The passage to Gibraltar was cold and stormy. 

The passage to Naples and Alexandria v/as rough; ten 
thousand repeated heavy seas pounded the ship. 

The sands of Sahara blev/ at Alexandria, getting into my 
kodak shutter. 

The trip to Cairo was through a lovely, sunny, green, 
alluvial land. 

Cairo was full of natives, merchants, Greeks, Jews, 
Armenians, Christians, Gentiles, Americans and tourists, 
and most fascinating. 

I visited the Sphinx and went up the great pyramid 
Cheops. 

I sailed ten miles up the Nile, saw the ruins of Memphis 
and the twenty-six subterranean tombs of the Sacred Bulls: 
most wonderful. 

1 rode parallel to Suez Canal from Ismailia to Port Said. 

I was quarantined six days off Beirut. 

On board the Ramanieh I formed the acquaintance of G. 
Hopham Blythe, the Bishop of Jerusalem, and many other 
distinguished Europeans. 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 83 

I was lifted bodily from the ship to a small boat off Jaffa, 
to go ashore amid dashing waves off Andromeda rocks. 

I walked repeatedly through Jerusalem, entirely around 
its walls, over it and under the stone strata in the tombs of 
the kings. 

1 visited the Holy Sepulcher, and descended into the tomb 
of Lazarus, and visited Mt. Olive, Jericho and the Jordan. 

I bathed in the heavy salt waters of the Dead Sea and in 
the Jordan, and drank of the waters of the spring of Elijah, 
flowing from under the Mount of Temptation. 

1 went to the house of Mary and Martha, in Bethany, and 
visited Bethlehem and Bethpage, whence the Saviour 
obtained the white ass for his official entry into Jerusalem 
through the Golden Gate. 

I visited Golgotha, the Place of the Skull; Gordon's 
Calvary and the Wailing Wall of the Jews. 

I was ten days on the Eastern Mediterranean and the 
JEgean Sea. 

I put on felt slippers to visit all the mosques we entered 
in Cairo, Jerusalem and Constantinople. 

1 had our American Consul, Rev. Merrel, at Jerusalem, 
identify a complete replica of the entire costume worn by 
Jesus, the Prophet and Saviour, bought and shipped it to 
the United States. 

I repeatedly visited the Acropolis at Athens, ascended the 
Areopagus, where Paul preached Christ to the Athenians, 
and stood on the Bema of Demosthenes. 

I descended the northern precipitous wall of the Acropolis, 
a feat rarely accomplished. 

I passed over the canal cut to let the waters of the Bay 
of Salamis into the Gulf of Corinth. 

1 sailed from Patras to Corfu, thence to Brindisi, across 
the beautiful Adriatic. 

I walked the streets of resurrected Pompeii; went around 
the foot of smoking Vesuvius; ascended the heights of St. 
Elmo and the Convent of St. Martin and looked into the 
lovely Bay of Naples. 

I spent ten happy days in Rome: walked through the 
Forum, on the Pincian and the Palatine hills, and attended 
a procession amidst eager thousands of devotees of the pop- 



84 THE OLD WORLD 

ular Pope Leo Xlll, and made an original sketch of him as 
he passed; made the pilgrimage of the seven churches. 

1 sat upon the heights of the Hill of Michaelangelo at 
Florence and surveyed the beautiful Arno. 

I swam in a gondola in Venice. 

I saw the Gothic Cathedral of Milan, went through ten 
miles of St. Gothard Tunnel and sailed upon Lake Lucerne; 
I saw the Wounded Lion of Thorwaldsen, cut out of the 
living rock, and the snow-white Falls of Schaffhausen. I 
passed Heidelberg and saw twenty thousand m.arching 
German soldiers in Stuttgart. From Mayence to Coin I saw 
the Rhine and the Castles; ate dinner at La Belle Aliance 
on the field of Waterloo, and passed from Brussels, through 
Compeigne, to beautiful Paris. 

LONDON, THE THAMES, THE STREETS, NORTH SIDE 

June 10th. 
The devious windings of the River Thames, from a bird's- 
eye view from the South Side, resembles a dromedary's 
silhouette. Commencing with the neck of the dromedary at 
Chelsea, on the west, the river in its course to the sea rises 
in two humps till it reaches the tail at Greenwich; the apex 
of the first being at Blackfriars Bridge and of the second at 
Lime House. The stream in its course flows successively 
under Albert Bridge, Victoria, Vauxhall, Lambeth, Westmin- 
ster, Waterloo, Blackfriars, Southwark bridges, London, the 
finest bridge of its kind in Europe, and Tower Bridge, there 
being none east of this, the shipping from the sea having 
free course from here. I took a steamer from Victoria 
Bridge, went up the Thames ten miles, passing the scene of 
the regattas, starting from Putney, to Kew on the South 
Side, spending the afternoon in the lovely gardens among 
the palms, the ferns, the orchids, carnations and roses, the 
most delicate and cultured I have ever seen. On a certain 
Sunday, June 1, I took one of the Belle steamers at London 
Bridge, at 3 p. m., crowded in all its decks with the 'Arries 
and 'Arriets of Lower London, went down the Thames, 
passed the Tower, through Tower Bridge, passed the West 
India Docks, the Isle of Docks, Deptford and Greenwich, 
rounded the anchored Nore, to the mouth, looking out upon 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 85 

the sea with its many sails, consuming four hours. Return- 
ing slowly, we anchored at the bridge at 11 p. m., the way 
up in the cabin being enlivened by the continuous topical 
and comical songs of some good tenor voices. There was 
much drinking, but the pervading good nature of the noisy 
crowds prevented any difficulties. The sight of a rocket 
from Alexandra Palace and the mellow sound of many bells 
clanging forth the news, announced to the eager crowd the 
welcome fact that the war in South Africa had ended and 
that peace was declared. 

The Strand, continued in Fleet street, Cannon street, 
Commercial road and East India Dock road, all of which 
I traveled, parallel the Thames on the north. Kensing- 
ton, Knightsbridge, Piccadilly, Longacre, Holborn, New 
Gate, Cheapside, Cornhill, Leadenhall, White Chapel, 
Mile End, one continuous street fifteen miles long, is the 
next road of length to the north and parallels the Thames. 
Its four millions of people are daily transported, in cabs, 
omnibusses, tubes, underground railway and tramways. Its 
pavements are asphalt and Nicholson. Westminster, St. 
Paul's and the Tower are the principal sights. 

THE KING 

Albert Edward was Prince of Wales sixty- one years, and 
obedient to his mother; presided at innumerable public 
functions and corner-stone layings; made the tour of the 
world; has a liberal education; speaks fluently all the con- 
tinental languages; is a patron of all the fine arts, espec- 
ially the drama ; attends the races at Epsom Downs and the 
Ascot: has a fine racing stud; is fond of cards and games of 
chance; knows Paris well and Monte Carlo; a good shot; 
is tender, kind and affectionate to his relatives; has not 
been, but is now, a model husband; is not ambitious, war- 
like or political; has no desire to rule absolutely or dictate 
to his ministers: is strictly a constitutional king; has the 
blood of the Normans, Plantagenets, Tudors, Stuarts in his 
veins: is unlike any of them, but takes after his Hanover 
and Coburg ancestors; is a modern cosmopolitan, and a 
devotee to official and social etiquette; has a Teutonic 
figure^an impassive countenance, and yet is a composite 



86 THE OLD WORLD 

Englishman in character and apparently universally popular, 
judging from the number of his effigies publicly displayed 
and the adulations in the public press and assemblies. Yet 
there is an undercurrent of popular discontent, a large 
socialistic leaven that will one day make itself felt. 

THE PEACE NEWS AND THE TE DEUM 

LONDON, June 18th. 

As I rode into the railroad Care du Lion sound asleep, so 
on the morning of April 36th 1 rode into Victoria Station, 
London, napping, caused by fatigue in night traveling. I 
became established in Elm Park Road, Kensington, S. W. 
On Sunday, June 1, I left London Bridge on a Belle line 
steamer for a trip to the mouth of the Thames. Returning at 
11 p. m., 1 saw a rocket ascend from Alexandra Palace, and 
heard the bells of St. Paul's and others, deep toned, ringing 
the news of ''Peace" conquered from the Boers. I ex- 
pressed myself as glad that no more good men on either 
side would be killed and that at last the poor soldiers would 
have a rest. As I passed through the streets toward my 
abode I noticed already great excitement, and that throngs 
were crowding the thoroughfares. The following day the 
private and public houses everywhere hung out flags. 1 
noticed several American ensigns, the only foreign flag 
waving. 1 went down to the center of the city at noon and 
remained till nearly midnight. The sidewalks and roadways 
were crowded; liberties were taken by tickling the faces of 
men and wOmen with peacock feathers, colored papers were 
showered on the passers, songs were sung and quadrilles 
improvised in the streets, indulged in by working girls and 
young men, glad of the opportunity of freedom bordering on 
license. The sixteen thousand members of the metropolitan 
police were vigilant to see that the rejoicings and excesses 
were not too extravagant. It was a repetition of Mafeking 
night, modified, I was told. 

The following Sunday, June 8th, the king and queen, the 
royal family, the lords and members of parliament carrying 
in a carriage the mace of the House of Commons, the 
generals of the army present in the city, and many other 
notables and distinguished personages, rode through Picca- 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 87 

dilly, the Strand, Fleet street to attend a Te Deum in St. 
Paul's. I saw the lord mayor meet the king at Temple Bar, 
deliver him the sword, emblem of the city's authority, amid 
the cheers of the assembled people, which sword was im- 
mediately returned to him, and the procession passed on. 

EUROPE AND AMERICA CONTRASTED 

June 21st. 

Europe exceeds America in the fine arts, painting, sculp- 
ture, music, the interior decorations, ecclesiastical architec- 
ture; in quiet, reposeful manners at public and private 
functions; in the immunity, under the law, of the person 
from violent assault, and from death or maiming while in 
public conveyances; in elaborate post graduate scientific 
investigation in all departments, and the art of cuisine. 
From their inception to their appearance on the table, the 
Europeans are past masters in the art of handling the 
potato, the egg, milk, butter, wheat and bread. In all my 
travels I never saw any stale food on the table. The beds 
are invariably clean and wholesome, at least in all the 
hotels I rested in. I saw not a bug on my tour. On the 
other hand, America, the United States, exceeds Europe in 
the manufacture of structural steel ; in the architecture of 
public buildings, high buildings and others; the rapid and 
safe house elevator; in public school buildings; in its sys- 
tem of universal public school education, its graded schools, 
from kindergartens through grammar to high schools; in the 
invention, manufacture and use of all labor-saving agricul- 
tural implements; in the multiplicity, utility and novelty of 
inventions, labor-saving and others; in the industrial and 
mechanical arts and sciences; and, above all, in its systems 
of steam and electric ships, railroads and rapid transportion 
and intercommunication over cities, continents and oceans. 

The drawbacks of Europe are its persistent and permanent 
subdivision into English, French, German, Spanish, Italian, 
Austrian, Prussian, Turkish and other nationalities, with 
strictly defined boundaries, strict revenue laws enforced at 
the crossing of every frontier; its multiplicity of tongues; 
the diversiy of postal laws, monetary systems, systems 
of weights and measures; its official priesthood, union of 



88 THE OLD WORLD 

Church and State; its international hatreds, animosities 
and jealousies; its fetish of hereditary kings and rulers, and 
above all, its vast standing armies of millions of men eating 
out the substance of the people. There should be a univer- 
sal disarmament and aboard of international arbitration, as 
outlined at The Hague. 

THE NECESSITY OF UNIFORMITY IN MONEY SYS- 
TEMS, WEIGHTS AND MEASURES 

I have traveled through the Orient and through all the 
countries of Europe this year, and lost on my arrival in 
each new country by the discount of my left-over money. 
The Greeks refuse to accept at par Turkish money; the 
Italians, Greek money; the Swiss, Italian money; the 
Germans, Swiss money; the French German money, and 
the English, French money — discounting, each nation, the 
other's money heavily, the money changers — accursed 
since the Saviour turned over their tables in the Holy 
Temple down to the present time— reaping the difference. 
The Turkish piaster, the Greek lepta, the Italian lira, the 
Swiss franc, the German mark, the French frank and 
the English shilling, differ in size, weight and intrinsic 
value; they should all be the same size, weight and purity 
in silver, retaining their national designations, and adopt 
the decimal system. 

The French division of one large silver piece, equivalent 
to our dollar, into five parts, each fifth into one hundred 
centimes, is the best. Our American dollar should have 
fifths instead of quarters, each fifth an hundred centimes. 
The same system should prevail in each European nation, 
and by international agreement the dollar unit in size, 
silver value and subdivisions, should be adopted, the coin 
stamped "Universalle" and be receivable at par everyv/here 
over Christendom. The English system is especially an- 
tique, combersome, inconvenient and confusing. 

Again, postal laws should validate the stamp of each 
nation, no matter in what country first affixed. An Italian - 
stamped letter deposited in a red English mail box in 
England will be refused carriage, and vice versa. An inter- 
national clearing postal office could easily settle balances. 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 89 

About personal baggage, each person should carry and 
present an affidavit that he has no merchandise subject to 
tariff; a violation to be prosecuted. The American car and 
baggage check system is the more convenient. The present 
European system is a great impediment to travelers. 

LONDON 

June 21st. 

In the British Museum, No. 18,212, the Mykermos Skel- 
eton — 3633 B. C— the Rosetta Stone and the Portland Vase 
to me seemed the most interesting after the Elgin Marbles 
and the Egyptian exhibits. The Royal Academy of Arts, 
occupying parts of Burlington House, in Piccadilly, on May 
30th, the Queen's birthday, was thronged with the best 
people of London viewing the fine exhibits of English artists. 
The South Kensington Museum has a life-size replica of 
Trajan's Column in Rome; is rich in other replicas of art 
temples, porticos and statues. Tate's Gallery of English 
paintings of the last one hundred years, on the Thames, 
over Vauxhall Bridge, is the thank offering of a rich sugar 
merchant and occupies the former site of a dismal old prison, 
Milbank penitentiary. The National Gallery is exclusively 
for paintings; it is on Trafalgar square. 

I sav/ these and many other art galleries of great educa- 
tive value and all freely open to the public. They contain 
convenient restaurants for lunch, so that one can pleasantly 
and profitably spend a whole day in any one of them. The 
English people are fond of handy and hearty eating. 

There are numerous parks, with ancient trees and velvet 
lawns: St. James's Park, Green Park and Hyde Park are 
the chief. 

The Monument commemorating the great fire, the elabo- 
rate Albert Memorial, Nelson Column, with lions as large 
literally as elephants, modeled by Landseer; Wellington 
Monument, looking toward Parliament House; the Crimean 
Memorial and Cleopatra's Needle, are the chief memorials. 
The nation is living on the fame of Waterloo and Trafalgar. 
Statues are too numerous to name. Bow- street Church, 
St. Martin's in the Fields, St. Sepulcher's, St. James's, St. 

IS— 



90 THE OLD WORLD 

Paul's, Westminster and St. Saviour's on the South Side, 
are the principal churches. 

The Tower, Mansion House, Guildhall, the Royal Ex- 
change, the Law Courts, I have seen repeatedly. 

Lambeth Palace, Buckingham Palace, Marlborough House, 
are all historical. The old palace of Thomas Wolsey, at 
Hampton Court, I visited June 9th, and saw the unassuming 
General Roberts review the Indian troops encamped in the 
park. In a small study hangs a half-size oil portrait of the 
ambitious miserable man, which I copied. 

London has now six millions of inhabitants ; every twenty 
years it doubles its population. Fast transportation lines 
are extending it to all points of the compass. It has houses 
enough for one hundred large cities. Now six millions: in 
twenty years it will have twelve millions. Tramways and 
the pressure of population constantly coming in from the 
country are extending the city southeast toward Chissel- 
hurst, southwest toward Twickenham, northwest beyond 
Southall, and northeast beyond Seven Kings. More than 
fifty years ago De Quincey said, ''London is a mighty 
nation". To-day London is a mighty empire. 

LONDON AND THE EMPIRE 

June 30th. 
Around the corner from where I live in London, on Elm 
Park Road, is the house of Thomas Carlisle, in Chelsea, on 
Cheyne Walk, facing the river. Milton, Cowley, Pope, 
Byron, Dr. Johnson, Nelson, Louis Phillipe, Louis Napoleon, 
all lived within a short radius of "the City", by which is 
meant that part bounded by Temple Bar on the west, and 
within a short radius of Ludgate Circus. Sentiment is 
overcome by commercialism, and the dwelling places of 
famous men are fast being demolished to make way for 
business houses. Churches, indeed, are fixtures, and those 
whose monuments are identified with them can still be seen. 
The site of Globe Theatre is occupied by Barclay's Brew- 
ery; Boar's Head Tavern by the statue of William IV. 
The green fields existing in Shakespeare's time on the 
South Side are now filled with ponderous business blocks, 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 91 

and the frequent trains of mighty trunk lines of railway 
thunder past over broad bridges spanning the Thames; so 
changed that he would not recognize his London, should he 
''revisit the glimpses of the moon". 

The thoroughfare leading from Fulham Road, through 
Piccadilly, Fleet, Cheapside, is so blocked with 'busses 
that a pedestrian can outstrip them. The fares are high. 
The Tube and the Underground are not sufficient to meet 
the wants of six millions of population, and it is increasing. 
Rapid transportation through this main thoroughfare by 
elevated steam railway, as in New York, must come in the 
near future — very likely through an American engineer and 
capital. 

Several hundred thousand people are annually out of 
employment and are a heavy charge on the municipal 
authorities in hospitals, poor houses and eleemosynary 
institutions; their number is increasing faster than the 
population. I bought a box of blacking made by Miller in 
New York city, on Fulham Road, in London, for one penny, 
as the cheapest and best in the shop; sold in New York for 
two and one-half pence; costing to manufacture and trans- 
port a fraction of one penny. Same is true in other lines, 
showing that American manufacture can undersell English- 
made goods. This is owing to high protective American 
tariff and English free trade. The result will be, vast 
numbers more of English mechanics will be thrown out of 
employment. 

The personnel of the English people is peculiar. They 
are growing as much alike as the Chinese from long inter- 
breeding, such is their aversion to intermarriage. Angles, 
Saxons, Danes, mingled, made a good race. They now 
need a new infusion of foreign blood. With the Irish and 
Scotch there is not much blood mixture. The Norman 
aristocrats are still a race apart. The grades in society are 
numerous and well-defmed. Long lines of ancestry, wealth 
and culture and legalized titles cause and keep up these 
castes. 

Beneath the mouth adulation of royalty there is much 
secret dissatisfaction and unrest. The royal arms are 
displayed on business houses advertisements; if not "by 
special appointment or warrant", they are put up as seduc- 



92 THE OLD WORLD 

tive signs anyhow. They never hope to speak to the king 
or mingle with the nobles, yet the royal movements are 
constantly discussed and chronicled same as we would the 
weather. Had Albert Edward died years ago when he fell 
so sick with an almost fatal illness, his son Clarence, it is 
said, never would have been permitted to be the successor 
of Queen Victoria, such was his want of character. Four 
or five bad kings between 1838 and 1901 would have ended 
the British monarchy. It is safe to say the decent private 
life of "the good" queen mother has kept it alive to date. 
Luxembourg, St. Cloud, Versailles, Fontainebieau, magnifi- 
cent palaces of the French Bourbons, are empty of their 
royalty as last year's birds' nests. The French Bastile, 
built contemporaneously with the Tower, was unnecessarily 
demolished in a frenzy of popular insanity. Never again 
will a Napoleon, an Orleans, or any Bourbon occupy those 
palaces. There will be no royal fetes in France or corona- 
tions, as much as the French love and excel in such 
pageants. The English have all their palaces — Bucking- 
ham, Windsor, Hampton and others — and have their royal 
family in them. Great was their joy at the coronation 
intended for June 26th, and correspondingly great the envy 
of the French that they could have none. The cost of the 
stars, flags, celluloid lamps, gas fixtures, seats and conven- 
iences and decorations ran into the hundreds of thousands 
of pounds. The sudden announcement, too long delayed, 
of the serious illness of the king was a deep disappointment 
to the people and an immense cost to the British govern- 
ment, who had been entertaining at public hotels and in 
private houses thousands of guests. Correspondingly and 
secretly, the French chuckled. It is said there was not 
even with the British that deep enthusiasm at the coming 
event as at the time of the jubilee, owing to the difference 
in character of the late queen and the present king, her son. 
The public houses have not forgone their immense crowds 
and dispensing of wines, beers and liquors. Shakespeare 
in Hamlet makes many allusions to the English habit of 
drinking in his time. To my personal knowledge there is 
still prolonged and excessive drinking of spirituous liquors 
among all classes of people here, high and low, rich and 
poor, male and female. It keeps the sixteen thousand 



(( 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 93 

metropolitan police busy watching the sixteen thousand 
public houses in London and the resulting disturbances. 
The public bars are frequented openly by women in middle 
class, who drink beer, porter, wine, whisky and gin to 
excess. 1 rode in a railroad compartment with three good- 
looking young women, each of whom drew a bottle of 
whisky from her satchel and freely drank from it. One was 
reading "East Lynne", crying over the novel and drinking 
neat whisky all at the same time. Statisticians here show 
that annually this habit is more detrimental to the English 
nation and more costly than the big wars and the interest 
on the public debt. Yet the custom increases. 

To me more peculiar than saying 'ead, 'orse, 'ouse, and 
putting on the "h" where it should not be, is the practice 
among most Englishmen of pronouncing the vowel "o" as 
"eou" in "meow", and their broad "a". 

London is no longer a mighty "nation"; it is a mighty 
empire". What Rome was to Italy in the time of the 
Caesars, London is more to England and to the broad impe- 
rial domain. Not Edinburgh nor Glasgow, nor Dublin nor 
Belfast; not populous Liverpool, nor Birmingham, nor Leeds 
rule the empire, but London, Downing street, and a few 
leading families in the country, in whom the chief offices 
are seemingly hereditary. I perceived that more and more 
during my residence here. Their leaning to the United 
States is largely interested, as to a young giant Rip Van 
Winkle arousing from a long sleep and seclusion. 

A PILGRIMAGE TO STRATFORD-ON-AVON 
CHRONOLOGICAL DATA 

1564. April 23. At Stratford -on-A von, William Shakes- 
peare is born in house in Henley street. 

1571-1578. Is pupil in grammar school in High street. 

1578. Earl of Leicester entertains Queen Elizabeth at 
Kenilworth. 

1582. November. Marries Anne Hathaway, of Shottery. 

1583. Susanna, his first child, is born. 

1585. Hamnet and Judith, twins, are born. 

1586. Goes to London, leaving wife and three children 

behind. 



94 THE OLD WORLD 

1586. Holds horses at door of theatre — unverified legend, 

invented many years after. 
1588. Ballad, lampooning Sir Thomas Lucy, Sheriff of 

Warwickshire, affixed to his gate. Imputed to 

Shakespeare. 

1592. Known in London as a re-writer of old plays at the 

Globe Theatre. 

1593. Acts before Queen Elizabeth. 
1596. His son Hamnet dies. 

1596. Deed written and extant, proving John Shakespeare, 

his father, still lives in Henley house. 

1597. Purchases New Place — then old — the best house in 

Stratford. 

1598. In London, appears as actor in Ben Jonson's comedy. 
1598. Letter to Shakespeare from Richard Quimbey, 

asking loan of thirty pounds; — only letter written 
to Shakespeare extant. 

1601. His father dies, having lived in Henley-street house 

forty- six years. Eight children lived there. 

1602. Has already written "Hamlet" and "As You Like 

It", among others. 

1604. William Shakespeare versus Philip Rogers, petition 

in suit for malt sold, filed. Record is extant. 

1605. Purchases tithes of Stratford, Bishoptown and Wel- 

combe. 

1608. Mary Arden Shakespeare, his mother, dies in Strat- 

ford. 

1609. Gilbert, his brother, signs document as his attorney- 

in-fact, in Stratford. 
1586 to 1611. Has produced thirty- seven plays, one hund- 
red and fifty-four sonnets and two long poems. 

1612. Disposes of his shares in Blackfriars Theatre and in 

the Globe. 

1613. Globe Theatre destroyed by fire, and all books and 

manuscripts contained therein lost. 
1613. Richard, his brother, dies. 
1605 to 1615. Writes Othello, King Lear, Macbeth. 
1616, Drayton and Jonson visit him at Stratford. 
1616. April 23. At New Place, Stratford, Shakspeare, 

after an illness of three days, dies of fever ; gastritis, 

I infer. 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 95 

1523. Bust, in Chancel of Holy Trinity Church at Strat- 
ford, is erected. 

1670. Susanna, afterwards Mrs. Nash, later, Lady Bar- 
nard, sole survivor of his lineage, dies. 

1757. "New Place" wantonly demolished by Rev. M. 
Gastrell, the owner. 

1880. Mrs. Baker, sole lineal descendant of Anne Hatha- 
v/ay's father, dies. 

1880. Shakespeare Theatre and Memorial erected. 

Such is the meager chronological record after 286 years' 
research into Shakespeare's life history. 

The first play I remember to have seen, as a child carried 
in arms, at the Olive -street Theatre in St. Louis, Mo., fifty 
odd years ago, was Alacbeth. its pageantry and swift 
tragic action bewildered and delighted me. From that day 
to this I have been an admirer of the master, having repeat- 
edly read and seen acted his leading plays and perused 
m.any commentaries on them. Of the mind and soul of 
Shakespeare, as revealed in his compositions, we know as 
much as mortal m,en can know of another man. We also 
know from the Parish Register kept in the Holy Trinity 
Church at Stratford, the dates of his birth and death. I 
saw it to-day. We also know that he married at eighteen, 
went to London and became a ''Johannes Factotum" at the 
Globe Theatre. I recently visited and located the spot in 
Southwick where it stood, now occupied by Barclay's 
brewery. We know that he re-wrote old plays — the library 
of this theatre contained the accumulation of generations of 
plays in books and manuscripts — and wrote new ones; that 
for a quarter of a century he produced one play at least 
annually, and sometimes two; was a good manager, a good 
actor, a splendid man of business for himself and others; 
was protected by the Earl of Southampton and other noble- 
men, and also by Queen Elizabeth — a fact that does much 
to reconcile us to her many and great faults; that his 
thoughts during all his stay in London fondly — as is evident 
— turned to this, his home; that he finally disposed of all 
his holdings in London; retired permanently to his new 
home in Stratford; died there, surrounded by wife, children 



96 THE OLD WORLD 

and loving friends, universally beloved; was buried in the 
sacred place in the chancel of the Holy Trinity, and seven 
years later v/as honored v/ith a bust decorating the wall 
above his tomb. This spot for years has been the Mecca of 
my thoughts and dreams as I turned the pages and pondered 
the deep thoughts of this marvelous man. in coming up 
here, betv/een Oxford and Leamington ! noticed beds of 
yellow flowers— wild mustard— blending with the color of 
the tender green m.eadows; forests of horse-chestnuts, oaks 
and elms. Allusions to roses, from buds to full bloom, 
luscious, ripe and sweet, are scattered with a bountiful 
profusion through his pages. As I look out of the back 
window of this hospitable hostlery on Henley street near 
his birthplace, I can see in the garden the descendants of 
those blooms so often admiringly looked upon by him. 
Passing over and through the fields in my approach to 
Stratford, I saw daffodils, violets blue, daisies pied, lady- 
smoks ail silver v/hite, cuckoo-buds of yellow hue, winking 
mary-buds, and all of poor Ophelia's flowers, rosem.ary, 
pansies, fennel, colum.bine and rue, in abundance. Doubt- 
less he saw his sisters, or his daughter Susanna, or Judith, 
his baby, bring from the fields in the early summer aprons 
full of just such flowers. He knew them by their common 
names, not caring for any other. 1 plucked one of each, 
placed them betv/een the leaves of my memorandum book 
to make a garland when I got home, in remembrance of this 
darling child and lover of nature. I also took som.e fresh 
green ivy leaves from the wall near the gate of the porch to 
the church. It is "leafy June", and for miles around the 
hawthorne hedges are white with blossoms. Doubtless 
at a not very remote geological period this whole island was 
submerged in the sea; the beds of marine shells of tlie 
pliocene era filled with the nitrogenous remains of dead 
mollusks in the limestone formation make nutrim.ent for the 
grass of the far-extending meadows here peculiarly rich and 
lusty, giving them a deep dark green tinge, forming fine 
flesh for the domestic animals, and strong, firm muscles for 
the men and women. The lime in solution in the drinking 
water builds up strong bones. I drank to-day of the water 
of Anne Hathaway's spring. The distant horizon all around 
the circle as 1 glance out, is clothed with that delicate azure 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 97 

luie that lends enchantment to the view. The air is full of 
moisture. The whole island, like "an emerald set in a 
silver sea", is swathed in clouds, white and dark blue, that 
constantly rise like steam from the superheated waters of 
the Gulf Stream in summ.er, making the flowers and plants 
and trees and shrubs of England, although the same latitude 
as Labrador, like tlie foliage of a hothouse. Warwickshire 
is as near the topographical center of England as its very 
irregular and indented coast line will permit. This v/hole 
country is like a park, kept by that fme landscape gardener 
"Nature". After my pilgrimage through Charlecote and 
Welcombe, I concluded that Shottery and Stratford are the 
more inviting. As I look out of the window I see thick 
masses of clouds scudding from the west. Doubtless, with 
eye "turned from earth to heaven", our poet often noted 
similar clouds here on their way to be "buried in the bosom 
of great ocean". The levels and plateaus of land hereabout 
are broad, wide and peculiarly open to ail skyey influences. 
The atmosphere from all points seems to me to be self- 
luminous, sparkling, and the infinitesimal atoms to move 
automatically and nimbly, with an invigorating and upliftfng 
effect. The flora and fauna and weather of the plays fit 
into this landscape exactly, and vice versa, as if described 
by a naturalist. The ruins of Kenilworth, not too far away 
for an active and ambitious boy of fourteen to get there on 
foot, as I saw to-day; the proud Earl of Leicester; the 
haughty and jealous queen; the glorious beauty. Amy 
Robsart, rival to a queen; — all these attractions must have 
fired the imagination of such a boy as bright Master William 
was at the time of the Queen's visit. The allegorical scenes 
depicted in a "Mid-Summ.er Night's Dream" read like a 
literal description of the entertainment provided by the Lord 
of the Castle, and so vividly described, also, by Sir Walter 
Scott in Kenilworth. There is in the play a distinct allusion 
to 

"An Imperial Votress, — 
A fair vestal throned in the West." 
And all through the landscape winds the lovely Avon, in 
early morn and eve like a sheet of silver, with willows 
showing white beneath by reflection in the smooth surface 
of the pool below. 



98 THE OLD WORLD 

in siicli a country, at such a time, was the dramatist 
born; — the right time, and the right phice, as I wrote in the 
visitors' book to-day. 

At the age of seven and until fourteen he attended tlie 
grammar school in the second floor of the chapel of the 
Guild Hall, on the southeast corner of Chapel and High 
streets. How many miscellaneous books and legends he 
devoured we do not know. I saw in the museum in the 
house in Henley street an ancient and capacious book and 
writing desk said to have been his, taken from this school 
room. The pictorial panorama of the History of the Holy 
Cross once illuminated the walls of the school room, and its 
scenes doubtless sank deep into his receptive mind. His 
faith through life to the close was in the Evangelical Ortho- 
dox Christian belief, not obtrusive, and the m.ediated 
dramas are composed by him on lines laid down in the 
Gospels: repentance, forgiveness and salvation. 

The house in Henley street is the largest on the street. 
It has three gables. It is on the line of the street. It is in 
good condition outside and in. The floor of the room 
entered is composed of large smooth blue stones, embedded 
in the earth. It has no ''cellarage". This room has an 
enormously large chimney with a large throat. I stooped 
under, looked up, and could see the sky. A settle is on 
one side and an ingle nook on the other, where one could 
sit close to the flame within the face of the fireplace. 
Doubtless this healthy, imaginative boy often did sit there 
and gaze into the curling flames, weaving strange fancies as 
his mother and sisters moved about in household duties, the 
lad meanwhile having a sense of comfort, as being "at 
home". A fire has not been made in it for centuries. From 
this room I passed into an L, divided into three rooms. I 
returned again to the kitchen. Adjoining is a room facing 
the street (private) now used as a record room. Adjoining 
the kitchen, and facing the street, are two rooms used for a 
museum of Shakespeare souvenirs; the sword carried before 
his father and his signet ring are here. There are seven 
rooms on the first floor, six rooms on the second, and three 
attic rooms, making sixteen in all. The number surprised 
me. There are no halls or porches. The staircase to the 
second floor ascends from the L room. There is a staircase 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 99 

leading to the attic, closed to visitors. The ceiHngs arc 
low; I could easily touch them. The front room above the 
kitchen, 13x14, as I measured it, is where the wonderful 
child first uttered his wailing cry as he came into this 
breathing world. Visitors are permitted to sit in Shakes- 
peare's low chair in this room. The walls are covered with 
penciled signatures. None are permitted now. It seems 
that all the great of the earth have been here to honor this 
lowly room. The panes of glass are small, are scratched 
all over with signatures made with diamond rings. 1 saw 
the signatures of W. Scott and T. Carlyle. A book is now 
provided where each visitor enters his name in ink. Judg- 
ing from the size and number of the books, a stream of 
visitors has flowed into this goal of literati for many 
years. A shilling each one pays defrays the expense of 
custodians, four in number, and repairs. The house be- 
longs to the nation, which patriotically purchased it, and 
would not allow Barnum, the showman, to dismember it 
and carry it away. The oak framework of the building, 
floor, joists, rafters, stanchions, are solid, sound, discolored 
dimension oak, hardened with great age, as the structure 
was ancient when John Shakespeare purchased it. The 
casings, doors, windows and fittings are not horizontal or 
perpendicular to a level; are sunken, are loose-jointed and 
admit the winter winds, ''admonishers that feelingly per- 
suade us what we are". Many large fires and warm bed- 
ding were required to keep the inmates comfortable in that 
house in winter. It is '*v/ell ventilated". Plaster and 
wood are the materials, the joinings being mortised and 
pinioned; no iron nails. It is an honest house — no sham — 
and picturesque with its pointed gables, small window panes 
and many wood mullions and members. The shadowy 
forms of the Shakespeares haunt this house. What a 
splendid woman the mother of such a man must have been ! 
what a physical frame, heart, brain and mind! Here the 
marvelous child was born; here nurtured. 

As I entered the city I saw a number of boys just let out 
of school, bright and gleeful lads with rosy faces. I could 
imagine Master William was such a boy. One came up to 
me and offered to be my guide. ''What do you think of 
Shakespeare?" ''He was a very great poet, sir," was his 



100 THE OLD WORLD 

reply. A bright lad with blue eyes, white and pink skin. 
Imagination could easily picture Master V/illiam such a boy 
at that age. Out of school at fourteen, he helped his father 
in different vocations — glover, wool -comber and farmer. 
Exploring every nook and corner of this lovely land, going 
with the family to church on Sunday, he was not long in 
finding other beauties than nature in the countryside. He 
saw Anne, and, as Miranda and Ferdinand did, "clianged 
eyes" — probably in that very walk under the lime trees 
leading to the church door — and accompanied her home. 
From tliat time his fate was sealed. The smoke that curled 
from her lowly thatclied cottage thereafter was doubtless 
his beacon by day, and the glint of the fire flashing through 
those diamond window panes was the light that lured him 
by night. He knew short cuts to Sliottery from every 
point, and every road seemed to lead straight to that en- 
chanted cottage. The mature charmes of the "imperial" 
Anne, then twenty-four, had ensnared the heart of the all 
too emotional youth of eighteen. "Love found a way" 
through all the guards of argus-eyed mother. What a lover 
he must have been! Fit for the queen of the whole world, 
and yet perhaps content to sit by that ingleside 1 saw 
to-day and gaze fondly into sweet Anne's eyes and watch 
her every motion with a lover's keen delight. There could 
be but one result: they loved and were married. She 
became the mother of his children; remained his sole wife 
through life in spite of the mysterious "black" beauty of 
the sonnets; survived him, followed his remains, no doubt 
tearfully, to their last resting-place; cherished and honored 
his memory; was proud of his fame, and joined with her 
son-in-law in erecting the bust and inscribing the epitaph 
in the chancel of the church, as we have every reason to 
believe. She was never heard to complain of any alleged 
desertion. When he prospered in London, he returned at 
intervals to his home here; he established his home at New 
Place, occupied it at first during intermittent visits, and 
finally continuously till the closing scene of his great and 
wonderful life. 

The alleged prosecution by Sir Thomas Lucy for stealing 
deer must have been a legal prosecution. If such, there 
must have been a record in court. There is no such record 



p. 
i 

'i 


^. i 


■HH ^ Jh^^^^^^^Hj^ 


r 


nil 


jB 


Wm 




t 


J 


n 


W^'^- 


■•"- s**- 




^^1 








R^l 




HH^j~wh^,« "''''^''^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^I 


H 



PALAZZO ST. MARCO; CHURCH; DUCAL PALACE; 
CAMPANILE, VENICE. 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 101 

extant. The story must have been invented by a gossip a 
generation after his death, and no foundation in contem- 
poraneous fact has been produced. The menial service of 
holding horses for noblemen coming from London to the 
Globe Theater, was also an invention of an after age, and 
lacks proof.. An, intelligent guard said to me to-day at the 
railroad station at Stratford, "Of course he wrote the plays. 
No one else could." A bright, sensible lady, an inmate of 
this house and an old resident, said: **The unbroken 
tradition here in this place, sir, is that Mr. William Shakes- 
peare wrote his works." She had never heard of any proof 
to the contrar3^ A sweet-faced, beautiful young American 
lady from Baltimore, who rode with me in the car to Kenil- 
worth and Warvv^ick, said, with dainty and convincing 
accent, she could not see how anybody could imagine 
anything different from the circumstances. What sane 
man would want to conceal the authorship of the ''Winter's 
Tale"; of ''Troilus and Cressida" ; of the "Tempest" .'' 
These probably were written at New Place, in his serene, 
mature, retrospective and closing years. I have this year 
seen all the tombs of the great, from the pyramids of Egypt 
to the Invalides in Paris. None have so impressed me as 
the simplicity and grandeur of Holy Trinity at Stratford. I 
v/alked around the church, past what had been the charnel 
house — he mentions in Romeo and Juliet a charnel house — 
over the mossy turf and between the leaning grave stones. 
1 turned my eyes to the tapering stone spire. Two hoarse 
ravens were circling around in a contest; a feather fell to 
the earth, broken, and yet warm from the body of one as I 
touched it. The feather had steel -black blue iridescent 
colors. These ravens were doubtless the descendants of 
the cousins of those that had croaked a hoarse welcom.e 
about Macbeth's towers as Duncan fatally entered, as they 
croak about the tower to-day opposite the remains of 
Shakespeare's "New Place" home. 

I sat long in the chancel of the church and gazed thought- 
fully at the lovely stained allegorical windows of the Seven 
Ages, and the American gift windows, and at his bust, 
bathed in the celestial light of the cathedral glass. I ran 
through in my mind the characters with which he had 

peopled his imaginary v/orld, more real to me than many 
16 — 



102 THE OLD WORLD 

actual persons who have lived and died: Miranda, Perdita, 
Ariel, Puck and others, circling in and out of the openings; 
I thought of the wonderful fecundity of that matchless 
intellect, the greatest that had ever been given to any of the 
children of men; of his sweet disposition, his character, as 
noble and high-minded as his own ideal Hamlet, or the 
real Henry V, and looked at that broad brow and those 
sealed lips, smiling and forever smiling upon us with an 
inscrutable mystery, — a face as unfathomable as that of the 
Egyptian Sphynx. The mystery still remains that so much 
intellectual work, and of such a high order, was accom- 
plished in so short a life by a man of such lowly antecedents. 
With the multitude, how much of our short lease of time is 
occupied in providing food, clothing and shelter, how mucli 
wasted in day-dreaming, idleness and trifling. '*So much 
to do; so little done." Life is short and art is long. With 
this "paragon of a world" art was deep, sure, swift, intui- 
tive, creative, God- given. He used in his plays nearly 
thirty thousand different words of the then English language 
of eighty thousand, and largely molded our tongue into its 
present plastic form — made it the shrine of compositions the 
most artistic ever emanating from a merely human brain. 

In the end England will lose her possessions in India; the 
Boer Republics in South Africa will all be free; Australia 
and New Zealand will be absolutely independent, and there 
will be a free United States of Canada. Then, while the 
dust of oblivion is increasing in layers on the tombs of 
Norman kings of England, and on the sepulchres of the 
Plantagenets, the Tudors, the Stuarts, the Hanovers and the 
Coburgs, and the sounds of their murderous strifes and 
ambitions are vanishing in the dim aisles and corridors of a 
far receding past, then, then the glory of this Son of Genius 
will rise higher and higher in the zenith and become the 
chief possession and honor of these Isles, and the name and 
fame and work of Shakespeare shall be a blessing to the 
whole human race. 

Stratford. England, June 11, 1902. 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 103 

MIDDLE ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND 

Ireland, July 6th. 

Leaving London via St. Pancras Station, June 30th, by 
the Midland railway, the most interesting route between 
England and Scotland, I passed through Bedford, made 
famous by John Bunyan. As an itinerant tinker he made 
long journeys on foot through the villages of central 
England. Lying in jail for nonconformity to the Church of 
England, these journeys came back to him in vivid remin- 
iscences by day dreams and night visions and doubtless 
suggested the ''Pilgrim's Progress", as Bunyan was thus 
himself a pilgrim. Another great book, fruitful in its 
momentous results, ''Marco Polo's Journeys to Japan and 
China," was written in the enforced seclusion of an hon- 
orable imprisonment at Genoa. With unerring instinctive 
appreciation of manly beauty and genius, though in an 
enemy to their state, the young ladies of Genoa — tenth 
century girls — found him out and cheered his solitude with 
bright flowers and brighter smiles. 

To the west of Bedford is Shakespeare's country, whose 
name and memory haunts Warwickshire and central Eng- 
land, the flora and fauna of which fit exactly into his plays 
and poems, and add an indubitable proof of his authorship. 
He was a genius, and to soar in the realms of fancy was as 
easy for him as for the eagle to poise with even wing in the 
blue empyrean and look the sun in the eye. My recollec- 
tion of Stratford, its memorable "Birthplace", the School 
House, the Hathaway Cottage, the ideal Church, the placid 
Avon, are most vivid and among the pleasantest memories 
of England. His name honors England more than Norman, 
Plantagenet, Tudor, Stuart or Hanoverian kings, and will 
be a rich inheritance when India and other possessions of 
the Great Empire are gone. Canada, South Africa and 
Australia are even now almost as independent as the United 
States. 

Sheffield and Leeds are smoky manufacturing cities. 
Further north and to the west of seaport Scarborough and 
York, the wild moors, v/ith heather clad, told me I was in 
the land hallowed by the name of Charlotte Bronte, from 
whose intense heart and brain, spite of her narrow life. 



104 THE OLD WORLD 

sprang that masterpiece of literature, "Jane Eyre", rich in 
character dehneation and insight into human nature. 

At CarHsle the tourist bids farewell to pure English terri- 
tory and associations. The scene changes: now comes the 

"Land of brown heath and shaggy wood; 
Land of the mountain and tlie flood." 

On the east, the land of Sir Walter Scott, on the west, of 
Robert Burns, whose plain name could not be more honored 
by any title. 'Tvanhoe" by one and "Cotter's Saturday 
Night" by the other, are among the treasures of the world's 
literature. At Carlisle the Midland railroad forks, ending 
in Edinburgh and Glasgow, equidistant branches. 

I became thoroughly conversant with the Castle, the 
splendid new North Bridge, Calton Hill, with its monument 
of Nelson and its fme view of Princess street, certainly one 
of the world's finest, sunniest thoroughfares; its Hoiyrood 
Castle, well preserved, redolent of memories of Queen 
Mary, into whose life was crowded royal honors, murders, 
imprisonments and ignominious death, making it one of the 
most dramatic of real tragedies. The scion of a long line 
of heroic kings of Scotland; the betrothed of the Dauphin 
of France; the wife of a dishonored and murdered husband 
— Lord Darnley ; the object of the guilty love of David 
Rizzio, her Italian music teacher, condignly punished by 
death for his infamy; the idol of the Catholic party, anath- 
ematized by John Knox, who preached at her to her face in 
church; the envy of the jealous Queen of England; the 
mother- ancestor of the fatuitous English Stuart kings, 
whose James I, years after her execution, gave her a 
second, midnight and royal funeral; the inmate of palaces, 
prisons, and whose life ended by the headsman's axe upon 
the scaffold: — all these thougiits passed in review before 
me as 1 looked at the original cotemporaneous oil portrait of 
her piquant face hanging upon the wall of the Audience 
Chamber at Hoiyrood Palace. 

1 passed over the magnificent steel truss bridge across the 
Firth of Forth to Sterling, and entered the castle perched 
upon a crag overlooking the wonderfully beautiful Vale of 
Monteith. On the field of Bannockburn I recited from 
memory Burn's ringing l^^ric, the six verses beginning: 




GIUDETTA VECCHIO, VENICE. 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 105 

''Scots wha hae with Wallace bled, 
Scots wham Bruce has aften led," 

to my companion of the voyage, Wm. Forsyth, of Lynn, 
Mass., a descendant of the Scotts. 

This lovely castle, with the heroic statue of Robert Bruce 
near the outer gate, pleased me as well as any I have seen. 
It is a palace, a castle and a home. In a lovely garden, 
into which was plunged from a window the lifeless body of 
Earl Douglas, assassinated by the Scotch King James IV, 
I saw growing innocent violets, pinks, roses and arbutus. 
Looking beyond the parapet I could see Abbey Craig, six 
hundred feet high, a lofty baronial tower, decorated with 
the memorial of William Wallace, that Wallace so basely 
murdered by the English in London Tower, after a lon^ 
imprisonment. 

From Stirling I passed to Aberfoyle and thence, with a 
coachmg^^arty of forty tourists, through the wild Highland 
Trosachs Gorge to Lake Katrine, over whose clear waters 
the proud steamer Sir Walter Scott carried us to Stonach- 
lachar, where we again took coach, passing a Scottish piper 
lustily playing his bags and pipe on the roadside, piles 
of cut drying turf, and many a quaint Burns-like cottage, 
to beautiful Inversnaid. Again taking steamer — the Blue 
Bell— over Loch Lomond, passing on our left Ben Lomond, 
whose high head was wreathed in mountain mists, inhabited 
by shaggy Rosa Bonheur cattle and black- nosed sheep, to 
Balloch, where a waiting train of cars carried us safely and 
rapidly to Glasgow, population three quarters of a million. 

After viewing the lovely Cathedral and traversing the 
busy streets of this fine city, inhabited by masterful men, 
who have a way of succeeding in the most difficult enter- 
prises, I sailed on the steamer Spaniel down the Clyde, 
lined on both sides with one hundred shipyards, busy in' 
riveting the redhot iron bolts into monster plates of battle 
and merchant ships — through the twilight that lingered till 
ten o'clock — and so the next morning at eleven landing at 
the wonderful docks, seven miles long, of Liverpool. From 
Liverpool through Chester I sailed up the river Dee on a 
gala Saturday afternoon on the steamer Bend'or to Eccles- 
ton, the seat of the Duke of Westminster. Returning to 



106 THE OLD WORLD 

Chester, I visited the tower of Charles I, whence that wrong- 
headed king saw his army defeated on Rowton Moor. 1 
also saw the ancient Cathedral, beloved of Chatterton, the 
Water Tower, with its ancient Roman ruins, and the Cross 
at Bridge and New Gate street, that night taking a steamer 
for Dublin across St. George's Channel. 

DUBLIN, CENTRAL IRELAND AND THE LAKES OF 
KILLARNEY 

Crossing St. George's Channel by night I arrived at 8 a. 
m. at Dublin, population a quarter of a million, at the wharf 
along the Liffey, with its harbor doubtless the cause of the 
selection of this spot as the site of a city. After having 
become snugly ensconsed in a comfortable old-fashioned 
hotel, with ponderous oak rafters, dimension timber stretch- 
ing twenty-five feet across the drawing-room, I consumed 
three hours in making manuscript, partook of luncheon, and 
sallied out to see the city. 

I passed the Custom House, fronting south on the Liffey, 
a large building of stone columnar and in the Doric style; 
after that the far-famed Four Courts, also of classic archi- 
tecture — dark, massive and weather-stained. 

The streets are well laid out and well paved. The main 
street, O'Connell, is wide and fine, at right angles to the 
river, which has been made straight and walled up. 
Numerous statues adorn the wide thoroughfare named for 
O'Connell, the agitator — Nelson and Father Matthew being 
of the number. St. Patrick's Cathedral, originally founded 
by the saint, is over one thousand years old. The graves 
of Swift and Stella are there. It is south of the river. 

Phoenix Park, eighteen hundred acres, is well kept, has a 
monument of stone to Wellington, shaped like a miniature 
Bunker Hill shaft, a splendid zoological department and 
the Vice Regal Lodge, the scene of the tragic murder of the 
viceroy by assassins from a jaunting car, the authors of 
which the British Government so condignly punished. 

A labor agitator — it was Sunday — was speaking in the 
park, fine looking, eloquent, with the features of an English 
Jew. He held, increased and swayed his audience at will; 
went repeatedly over the entire ground of Irish grievances 



THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 107 

— the land question, wages, one-sided criminal prosecutions, 
the insincerity of the Freeman's Journal, of Redmond and 
other Liberal leaders; cited Belgium as a model of prosperity 
resulting from public ownership of transportation lines; 
referred to the king as "a broken down old German gentle- 
man, pulled and hauled about London from Buckingham 
Palace to St. Paul's and over London bridges as a gilded 
image to draw custom for London hotels and London shop- 
keepers, in a coronation farce," and unsparingly denounced 
the Boer war as a land grab, the Irish soldiers as tools, to 
that extent it was necessary for the vigilant watchful police 
near by to safely convey away a returned Irish soldier, who, 
pale as death, with clenched fist, resented the imputation. 
Leaving Dublin, Monday, July 7th, at 10 a. m., by the 
Great Southern and Western Railway, I entered a corridor 
car, partially modeled on the American system— a move in 
the right direction — and passed through the counties of 
Dublin, Kildare, Queen's, Tipperary, Limerick and Munster, 
reaching Mallow Junction at 1:20 p. m., where I took the 
train for Killarney, in the county of Kerry, whose western 
border is on the Atlantic ocean. I bestowed my belongings 
at McCowan's Central Hotel, removed the stains of travel, 
took a refreshing nap, a walk through the quiet town and, 
after a good dinner, had a night's sound sleep, preparing 
me for the tour around the lakes of Killarney. The trans- 
portation is by brake eight and one-half miles, between 
high stone walls, under acacia trees, to Dunloe Gap, to the 
cottage of Kate Kearney, kept by one of her descendants, 
where horses, called ponies, are kept to ride by bridle path 
six miles through the Gap, a wild, mountain defile, guarded 
by numerous Irish women who sell a strong combination of 
goats' milk and whisky carried in bottles under their shawls, 
and boys who explode a small cannon and demand pennies 
for the "echo", which no American gentleman, ^'your 
honor," can refuse. Down to Lord Brandon's Cottage is 
five miles, where a heavy toll is charged each tourist, and 
later is a long boat ride past Eagle's Nest to the ivy-clad 
ruins of ancient Ross Castle: thence by brake to Killarney 
Town. A beautiful incident was the music by a bugler 
seated in the prow of the boat, the airs being **The Lakes 



108 , THE OLD WORLD 

of Killarney", "Fair Harvard", ''Last Rose of Summer" 
and the ''Echo Melodj/", very pathetic indeed. 

IRELAND, ITS CONDITION AND PROSPECTS 

July 9th. 
The titanic upheavals of tlie primary stratifications of the 
crust of the earth, passing through Dunloe Gap in Kerry 
County, near the lakes of Killarney, reveal the nature of 
Ireland's geology. The numerous railroad cuts everywhere 
show a decided ice and drift period, — sand and smooth 
rounded bowlders, large and small. The mountains are 
lofty, from two to three thousand feet high in the south- 
west; low and rolling in the northwest. In counties Dublin, 
Queen's, Tipperary and Limerick, the land is gently undu- 
lating. The surface is part mountainous, has numerous lakes 
in every part, large and small. Lough Neagh and Killarney 
being the largest. The rivers Bann, the Liffey, the Shan- 
non, Slaney, Nore, Suir and Lee drain the land. There 
are cone bearing and deciduous trees; forests of size on the 
mountain declivities, river valleys, and planted trees divid- 
ing estates. The fences are stone bowlders, earth and 
hedges. Large tracts of land owned by single proprietors 
are enclosed with high heavy stone mortared walls, notably 
the several thousand acres of land belonging to Lords 
Kenmare and Brandon in the southwest. Large areas are 
covered with fens and bogs, and many acres in the central 
counties are peat quarries,- — uncultivable. The perennial 
moisture and bright skies give the grass that tint of emerald 
peculiar to the Holy Island. No American Indian corn is 
grown, very little wheat, no hops, small barley, some oats, 
some patches of potatoes and fields of meadow. The agri- 
cultural implements are the plow, the hoe, mattock and 
rake; very little of improved patent American implements 
did I see. The strawberry, gooseberry and currant are 
raised in quantities. Very few apples; the pear, peach and 
tamarind only on southern sunny walls. There are no grape 
vines, the land is too damp and cold. No mulberry trees. 
In Limerick an attempt was made to raise apples for cider. 
The mineral -manufactured cider, however, stopped that 





J^^^^HI^^^^^I 


^ 




^ 




-T^ 

< 








^^-^ 





THROUGH NEW WORLD EYES 109 

industry. Hardy sheep are being imported from Scotland, 
capable of staying out all winter. Horses and cattle are 
raised and seem to be the most valuable industry engaged 
in. The red fox has almost entirely disappeared, I am told, 
and tamie deer can be seen in the parks. The very few 
good houses in the country are the somewhat pretentious 
abodes of landlords. The larger number are the low, one- 
story thatched cottages of the Irish peasant, who contents 
himself with a donkey, a sow and pigs, a cov/ if possible, if 
not, a goat, a dirt floor, a peat fne, and a small patch of 
potatoes. I saw walking along the wall in Kerry County a 
fine looking Irish native woman, bare head and feet, with a 
tattered skirt, not begging. On either side" and for miles 
stretched stone walls, enclosing miles of forests and parks 
belonging to Lord Kenmare. Henry VIII confiscated many 
monasteries, Elizabeth gave the land to English Protestant 
noblemen, some of whom went to reside in Ireland and 
became Irish Catholics in after generations. Cromwell, in 
his short administration, besieged and took Queenstown. 
He conquered the country, but was repulsed at Lissmore, 
being called back to England by pressure at home. William 
of Orange defeated the Stuart party and the Irish Catholics 
in the field at the Battle of the Boyne. In 1798 pitched 
battles were fought by Irish nationalists and they were 
defeated. Since then agitation has gone on, notably by 
Daniel O'Connell, whom Justin McCarthy accused of 
inconsistency for indulging in lifelong passionate appeals to 
Irish patriotism for national independence, then, in the end, 
advising his follov/ers to tamely submit. The population 
of the country at the highest was eight millions; now it is 
only four, and not increasing. The cities Sligo, London- 
derry, Belfast, Dublin, Drogheda, Wexford, Waterford, 
Cork, Killarney, Limerick, Galway and Westport, are 
increasing in population at the expense of the country 
districts. 

Mr. C. L. Galloway, a large cattle raiser of Lissmore, 
stated to me: If Ireland had absolute independence in all 
respects and were left alone to govern itself, it would fail 
for want of the spirit of compromise; that she is incapable 
of self-government; that the land law permitting tenants to 
become owners in forty- nine years was a failure on account 
of the high price demanded by owners for their land ; that 



110 THE OLD WORLD 

the remedy, compulsory arbitration was needed; that the 
mixture of Spaniards with the Irish, which had taken place 
in Wexford and the west of Ireland at the time of the descent 
of the Spanish Armada, had not produced a race more capa- 
ble of self-government: that both were too excitable and 
contentious. He further stated that annually there was 
expended more in spirituous liquors by the people than the 
entire amount paid in rentals; that this seemed to be the 
irremediable curse of Ireland; that the north part of the 
country was inhabited by a better and more sober race; 
that Belfast was more prosperous tlian Dublin and increas- 
ing faster in wealth and population. I merely repeat his 
statement as made. 

In France, in England, in Australasia, in America, Irishmen 
have succeeded. It seems they do better in foreign lands. 
They thrive by transplantation. They surely have "bred 
in*' too long at home. 

This is the dark side of the picture. 

I met many splendid men and women in Ireland, hopeful, 
noble, true; imbued with an intense devotion to the glorious 
legends and history of the holy land, its saints, martyrs 
and heroes. No country has grander. All the finest traits 
of human nature have been exemplified in their conduct — 
as. hospitality, virtue, industry, patience, bravery, martial 
ardor, devotion to the fine arts, poetry, music and painting. 
There is a widespread desire for a revival of the glories of 
old Erin and the Celtic race in a new Ireland untrammelled 
by England or any other foreign malign influence. May 
Ireland yet be redeemed and accomplish its true national 
destiny in the sisterhood of nations is the fervent wish of a 
true friend. 

I disembarked from the fine propeller Divonian, Leyland 
line, eight days out from Liverpool, in Boston, July 21st, 
and then home to St. Louis, glad to be again in "my own 
dear native land", in six months having traveled in all — 
main and side journeys — twelve thousand miles and ex- 
pended six thousand francs, receiving full value of every 
centime; returning a lover of the best in all nations and 
religions, with a mind broadened and liberalized by my 
travels. JAMES M. LORING, 

4219 W. Belle Place, St. Louis, Mo., July 26, 1902. 
THE END. 



DEC. 19 I90» 



